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ARP 2600 cabinet lid dimension
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Solar1



Joined: Mar 25, 2007
Posts: 14
Location: Michigan

PostPosted: Thu Jul 16, 2015 1:47 pm    Post subject: ARP 2600 cabinet lid dimension Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Hello folks, I'd like to ask for some help with a cabinet lid dimension for an ARP 2600.

The dimension I need is the depth of the cover/lid to the main console (not the keyboard)

The outer dimension should be aprox. 5" as best I can guess.
I need to fabricate a cover to replace a missing one.

I sure would appreciate your help. Thanks
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xjscott



Joined: Apr 25, 2007
Posts: 224
Location: Appalachia

PostPosted: Fri Jul 24, 2015 10:31 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

I am not sure I understand which dimension you need, but the outside depth of the main instrument cover is 4 1/8" according to my tape measure.
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Solar1



Joined: Mar 25, 2007
Posts: 14
Location: Michigan

PostPosted: Fri Jul 24, 2015 10:43 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

hello xjscott,
thanks for your response.
The measurement I am looking for is for the cover/lid depth, not the width or height (32"x18.75" for my console).

So, your 4 1/8" sounds about right for depth, my estimate was about 4 5/16" when measured from the outside (long point of the angled edge).
that accounts for the cover back material thickness and the console protrusion into the cover/lid.

While you have your tape measure out, could you measure the clearance hole diameter on the cover where the long console feet protrude thru?
Thanks!
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xjscott



Joined: Apr 25, 2007
Posts: 224
Location: Appalachia

PostPosted: Fri Jul 24, 2015 2:13 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Solar1 wrote:
hello xjscott,
The measurement I am looking for is for the cover/lid depth, not the width or height (32"x18.75" for my console).


OK, cool, here the height is 18 3/4" exactly and the width is 31 15/16", so I know we are talking about the same dimensions.

Solar1 wrote:

While you have your tape measure out, could you measure the clearance hole diameter on the cover where the long console feet protrude thru?
Thanks!


It's really good you mentioned about the clearance holes. I now realize I was measuring the main case and not the lid (presently it has the cover on), so actually I gave the other depth. The lid depth you actually want is 4 1/2", with some points being 1/32" greater than that. It seems to me it was probably cut to 4 1/2" but without perfect precision in that, or perhaps variations in the naugahyde thickness.

The foot clearance holes are 1 9/16" in one dimension and 1 1/2" in the other. This suggests to me a 1 1/2" bit was used and there was the usual wobble from equipment used in a small shop. Notably, it is not centered on the foot! One foot is nestled in the corner of the hole, the other is more centered, but not quite.

Posted Image, might have been reduced in size. Click Image to view fullscreen.

Posted Image, might have been reduced in size. Click Image to view fullscreen.
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Solar1



Joined: Mar 25, 2007
Posts: 14
Location: Michigan

PostPosted: Fri Jul 24, 2015 2:34 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Hello xjscott,


Wow, you must have taken your 2600 right outside to photograph!
Thanks!

Can you confirm it is an original cover (lid)?

If so, you are most likely correct, "shop wobble" (I like that term!).
Referring to the foot not being centered, I first thought maybe it needs to be offset in order for the cover to slip on, but then the fact the only one hole is like that leads me to believe it might be a little shop wobble on the part of the shop worker.

I'm trying the figure out how the original tolex is wrapped thru the foot hole. It's hard to visualize without having one to look at.
I'm trying to build a new lid as close to original specs as possible.

In your photo, your tolex looks like it has a deeper texture than my original case. Mine is extremely smooth with hardly any groove depth. Has your's been re-tolexed?

Thanks again for your help.
I very much appreciate you taking the time to measure the cover for me.
I'm sure it will be helpful to others as well, whom may be in need of fabricating a cover.

May I(we) call upon you again if we need additional dimensions?
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xjscott



Joined: Apr 25, 2007
Posts: 224
Location: Appalachia

PostPosted: Fri Jul 24, 2015 4:00 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

It's the original case and tolex.

I hadn't really noticed before today how incredibly irregularly shaped that hole is, quite interesting.
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Solar1



Joined: Mar 25, 2007
Posts: 14
Location: Michigan

PostPosted: Fri Jul 24, 2015 4:16 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Hi xjscott,
After reading your reply, A re-measured my console.
It is dead on at 32" wide, and the height is exactly 18 7/8".
(This of course, are the cabinet dimensions not including the steel hardware)
I have read somewhere that the covers/lids where individually fitted to each console.

Looking closely at my console construction, I see a lot of room for "shop variations".

For instance, the console top piece measures 4/18" wide at one end, and the other end is 4 1/4" wide.

Now, in all fairness, the plywood is 40 years old. I'm sure there must be some swelling and some shrinking of the plywood.

I'm also guessing that the bevel edging (to nestle the cover) was run thru a table saw after the unit was glued and assembled. That alone could account for variations.
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Solar1



Joined: Mar 25, 2007
Posts: 14
Location: Michigan

PostPosted: Fri Jul 24, 2015 4:21 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

xjscott,

I seem to remember that while setting the cover in place on the console, it needs to kind of "tip in" bottom (feet) end first. is that correct?
If so, is the extra clearance of the thru hole needed for "setting on" movement?

Also; is there even any tolex covering in the edge of the holes?
Your photos seem to look like there is none.
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xjscott



Joined: Apr 25, 2007
Posts: 224
Location: Appalachia

PostPosted: Fri Jul 24, 2015 5:06 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Ok, interesting, the tolex is just cut to slightly overlap the hole. Maybe it was cut with an xacto knife. The plywood is exposed and layers visible inside the hole and is stained black in the edges. It was likely stained, with overlapping to the flat edge at least somewhat before the tolex went on.

Based on the shape of the hole it is obvious to me now that it was cut with a jigsaw or such and not a proper hole cutter since the hole is just not all that circular.

Yes, it goes together by tilting. It works well. Set the lid down first and tilt the instrument into the case, it goes smoothly, and then latch the sides.
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Solar1



Joined: Mar 25, 2007
Posts: 14
Location: Michigan

PostPosted: Fri Jul 24, 2015 5:16 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

yes, that irregular hole is quite odd.

as i remember my cover, the holes seemed very cleanly cut/drilled. but then again, it's been 27 years since my case/cover was "lost" by one of my employees.

I am in the layout and planning stages right now, and hope to begin fabrication of the cover soon.

xjscott, your assistance has been quite helpful!
thanks!
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