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 Forum index » DIY Hardware and Software » fonik's place
5-channel Attenuverting Mixer 2nd run
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frijitz



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PostPosted: Sun Jan 25, 2009 9:15 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

fonik wrote:
i simply don't know how to achieve amplification of the non-inverted signal with this setup.

I believe the circuit below will work for gain of +/-2. You can derive the Vin/2 with a resistor voltage divider, provided R2 is large enough to preclude significant loading.

Very Happy

Ian


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fonik



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PostPosted: Mon Jan 26, 2009 1:22 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

rjd2 wrote:
so i finally built one of these, and im having a problem. when i sweep thru the trim pot,i get no voltage change at the output jack of channel 1.

so it is a problem for channel 1 only?

Quote:
i've checked all 4 IC's, and im getting +/-15V at pins 8 and 4, respectively. power is definitely wired properly.

fine.

Quote:
ive added the 100k R for the dc/ac switch at C13. ( i just wired a 2-pole switch across the 2 pads of "SW 1").

i don't exactly understand what you mean. for SW1 a 3pole switch is needed.

Quote:
im not using switched jacks. im using the same center detent 50k alpha pots that were referenced.

how did you connect the channels to the actual mixer then? or did you not use single outs?

Quote:
maybe can someone clarify in the docs, is your black wire on the pot wiring ground? i cant tell for sure from the orientation, since it looks like the order of the pot pads is reversed on the bottom of the board from the top.

yes, black is going to ground.
the footprints of the components are in a different order (due to board design issues), however the pads order for each footprint is all the same for the whole board. the footprints on the the bottom edge of the board are rotated by 180deg BTW.

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rjd2



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PostPosted: Mon Jan 26, 2009 8:58 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

fonik wrote:

Quote:
ive added the 100k R for the dc/ac switch at C13. ( i just wired a 2-pole switch across the 2 pads of "SW 1").

i don't exactly understand what you mean. for SW1 a 3pole switch is needed.

Quote:
im not using switched jacks. im using the same center detent 50k alpha pots that were referenced.

how did you connect the channels to the actual mixer then? or did you not use single outs?


maybe my switch wiring is off. i just have a 2-pole closed/open switch across the 2 pads marked "SW". i dont have any 3 pole switches here; any way to wire without one?

for the jacks, i just wired tip and sleeve, omitting switch. i did ins and outs for 4 channels, plus sum out, and ac/dc switch. i only wired channel 1 so far; didnt want to wire all the pots if i dont know 100% how i should be wiring them. i also tied all my jack grounds together, and wired to a ground pad of the pcb.

maybe the switch wiring is what's causing this issue? thanks for the help!
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fonik



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PostPosted: Mon Jan 26, 2009 10:00 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

rjd2 wrote:
maybe my switch wiring is off. i just have a 2-pole closed/open switch across the 2 pads marked "SW". i dont have any 3 pole switches here; any way to wire without one?

so you just used a 1-pole switch across pins 5 & 6 of the conector for the 3-pole switch.
actually the PCB is laid out for a 3-pole switch, the little arcs at the conenctors footprint on the PCB indicate the two associated pads of each pole.
however, you can still use a 1-pole switch. in this case you should wire it across pins 1 & 2. looking at the schematic you will see that this connection would provide the bypassing of the C13. so you could still switch between AC and DC mode - you would have to quit the sweet nice LED indicators for DC, though.

Quote:
for the jacks, i just wired tip and sleeve, omitting switch. i did ins and outs for 4 channels, plus sum out, and ac/dc switch. i only wired channel 1 so far; didnt want to wire all the pots if i dont know 100% how i should be wiring them. i also tied all my jack grounds together, and wired to a ground pad of the pcb.

maybe the switch wiring is what's causing this issue? thanks for the help!

if you did not use switched jacks, how could the signals from the attenuverters get summed? taking a look at the schematic shows us R17-R21. these are the input resistors of the summing mixer (IC3A/IC4B). from what you are saying i understand, that the attenuverters are not connected to the summing mixer yet. so no, the switch wiring tells us nothing about the behaviour of the actual attenuverter.

i reviewed your origin post. did you apply an external signal to channel 1 yet? for the attenuverter can only attenuvert an existing signal for sure.

don't feel offended by this questions, please. i just want to make sure. and believe me, i once sat an hour before a new module and wondered why it doesn't work at all - until i recognized i simply forgot to put the IC in their sockets! Laughing

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rjd2



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PostPosted: Mon Jan 26, 2009 5:45 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

thanks for the help, fonik. i now have all 4 pots wired per your instructions.

i have the jacks just wired to "tp" to tip and the blank pad/ground to sleeve. from the pdf, i thought that just omitting the switching pin meant that you lost the individual output cutting off the "sum out". i have my sum out jack wired to "sum tp". the "sum" ground pad is where all my jack ground ties come in.


i ran a stereo signal thru channel 1, and the pot seems to work properly in relation to L to R, but i am only getting ground hum with very faint signal. and again, measuring DCV at the output 1 jack, i still get 0V, and no play from trimmer.

just to clarify, you said the ac/dc/ switch can be wired across pins 1 and 2, but im not sure which pins those are; the ones above the label "SW1", or the opposite first 2 pads? the ones all the way to the RIGHT of the "SW1(closed DC)" labelling?

thanks for the help.
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fonik



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PostPosted: Tue Jan 27, 2009 9:49 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

rjd2 wrote:
i have the jacks just wired to "tp" to tip and the blank pad/ground to sleeve. from the pdf, i thought that just omitting the switching pin meant that you lost the individual output cutting off the "sum out". i have my sum out jack wired to "sum tp". the "sum" ground pad is where all my jack ground ties come in.

wiring the module in this manner, the outputs of the attenuverters are still not connected to the inputs of the summing mixer. you would have to connect the undesignated pad to the "tp"-labeled pads. this way each attenuverter would be permanently connected to the mixer.
in other words, the output signals of the 5 attenuverters are at "tp". the inputs of the mixer are at the undesignated pads (going to R17-R21). leaving off the pads for the switching pin just cut off the attenuverters from the mixer.

Quote:
i ran a stereo signal thru channel 1, and the pot seems to work properly in relation to L to R, but i am only getting ground hum with very faint signal. and again, measuring DCV at the output 1 jack, i still get 0V, and no play from trimmer.

mmmh. what do you mean by stereo signal and L to R? the attenuverting mixer is a mono unit for mixing control voltages or mono audio. the inputs are mono: signal on tip, ground on shaft. the switching pin is for normalling the inputs to an offset voltage (assuming you use switching jack sockets), and the outputs are mono.
consequently the actual attenuvertion control does not pan from left to right, it attenuates the signal and inverts it, if desired: potentiometer at 12 o'clock will give zero output, fully clockwise you will have no attenuation, fully counterclockwise you will have no attenuation but inversion.

for the start i would apply a control voltage to the input of a certain attenuverting mixer channel. this would even help to measure the output.



Quote:
just to clarify, you said the ac/dc/ switch can be wired across pins 1 and 2, but im not sure which pins those are; the ones above the label "SW1", or the opposite first 2 pads? the ones all the way to the RIGHT of the "SW1(closed DC)" labelling?

the ones all to the right.

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PostPosted: Tue Jan 27, 2009 6:10 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

ok-so if if just bridged each of the jack output pads' "SW" to "TP", then each attenuverter would be permanently running to "sum out"? maybe i'll just do that.

sorry, when i said "stereo signal", i meant a signal from my stereo! i should have said LINE LEVEL. i can plug this in my modular, and see what happens with a CV at input.

back soon with more info. thanks for the help!

EDIT: i got the trimming sussed. very obvious in hindsight; i SHOULDNT have seen a voltage at the output pins with no voltage at input. duh.

one last thing; i tried bridging the "SW" and "TP" pads for each channels output jack. it provides no attenuation at the "sum" output now; each side of the pot is 100% from 1 oclock to 5 oclock, so to speak. how can i maintain the attenuverter aspect of each channel at the "sum out"?
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fonik



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PostPosted: Wed Jan 28, 2009 12:57 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

you solved a lot of issues now. great.

rjd2 wrote:
one last thing; i tried bridging the "SW" and "TP" pads for each channels output jack. it provides no attenuation at the "sum" output now; each side of the pot is 100% from 1 oclock to 5 oclock, so to speak. how can i maintain the attenuverter aspect of each channel at the "sum out"?

fully clockwise and fully counterclockwise there will be no attenuation. full attenuation (no signal) will get achieved with potentiometer in 12 o'clock position.
the signal on the single outs of each attenuverter will get summed with the mixer so there should be no changing of the signal. in other words, the mixer just mixes what gets in, so if the attenuverter works, there should be no problem.
the attenuverters and the mixer are independend circuits.

i wanted to make sure i understand you and your observations before we look for a solution.

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rjd2



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PostPosted: Wed Jan 28, 2009 6:53 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

thanks senor fonik; let me explain further.

"
fully clockwise and fully counterclockwise there will be no attenuation. full attenuation (no signal) will get achieved with potentiometer in 12 o'clock position. "

with signal at input 1, the output 1 gives me the above properties. it works right-sweeping thru the range of the pot gives a steady increase in volume. the problem is that when i monitor at SUM OUT, the pot doesnt function as a pot. if the pot is set to 1'o clock, or 3 oclock, or 9 oclock, i still get full level signal. its at 100%volume all the time. since im mainly gonna be using these as VCO mixers, i want to have the pot functioning at the sum out.

you said to bridge the blank pad of the output jack with "SW". the blank pad being ground, is that what i want to do here? or is the mixer designed in a manner where attenuvertion should not be happening at the "sum out" stage?
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fonik



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PostPosted: Wed Jan 28, 2009 9:49 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

rjd2 wrote:
with signal at input 1, the output 1 gives me the above properties. it works right-sweeping thru the range of the pot gives a steady increase in volume.

this is good.

Quote:
the problem is that when i monitor at SUM OUT, the pot doesnt function as a pot. if the pot is set to 1'o clock, or 3 oclock, or 9 oclock, i still get full level signal. its at 100%volume all the time. since im mainly gonna be using these as VCO mixers, i want to have the pot functioning at the sum out.

which you should have. here is somthing going wrong. we will investigate that further.

Quote:
you said to bridge the blank pad of the output jack with "SW". the blank pad being ground, is that what i want to do here? or is the mixer designed in a manner where attenuvertion should not be happening at the "sum out" stage?

no, no. my mistake. you are right. you want connect "tp" with "sw" - this would actually be nothing but the behaviour of a switching socket with no cord plugged in.
as said before, the attenuverters and the mixer are independend circuits.

now i recommended this:
1st: remove R29/R30. they are not needed, since you don't use the offset voltage for switching input sockets, don't you?
2nd: disconnect all attenuverters from the mixer (no jumper from "tp" to "sw" of J6, J7, J8, J9 & J10. No jumpers for J1-J5. these are the inputs.
3rd: test each attenuverting circuit. apply a control voltage (no audio) to the input and measure the output at the "tp" pads of J6-J10 for the potentiometer positions (attenuation, inversion).
4th: now test the mixer. close SW1 (bypass C13: DC mode) and apply a CV signal to one of the inputs ("sw" of J6-J10). measure the output. it should be almost the same as the input. try all inputs.
5th: report out. Smile

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numbertalk



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PostPosted: Mon Feb 09, 2009 8:45 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Regarding the alpha pots with center detent, I find there is more play in the detent position than I anticipated. I built my mixer a few weeks ago and found trimming it a little tricky because of this and also find that it's very difficult to fully attenuate a signal on any of the channels- it's unfortunately not simply a matter of dialing the pot to the detent position.

Matthias, do you think regular pots would work better or is setting channels fully attenuated/silent a very slim threshold and tricky dial in, right between attenuated and inverted, for this mixer even with regular pots?

Great module, by the way, thanks for this project! I'll post a photo tonight of it paneled up in my synth.
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neandrewthal



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PostPosted: Mon Feb 09, 2009 11:04 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Has anyone used center tapped pots, with no detent? Are they any good in this context? Any tips on where to get them?
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fonik



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PostPosted: Mon Feb 09, 2009 11:52 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

numbertalk wrote:
Regarding the alpha pots with center detent, I find there is more play in the detent position than I anticipated. I built my mixer a few weeks ago and found trimming it a little tricky because of this and also find that it's very difficult to fully attenuate a signal on any of the channels- it's unfortunately not simply a matter of dialing the pot to the detent position.

that's why i stopped using potentiometers with center detend. one could use two diodes to fix the center detend but then you would loose the range from -0.3V to +0.3V on the potentioemter... ahve not tried it yet. i am happy with common potentiometers.

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PostPosted: Fri Feb 13, 2009 7:53 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Oh well. You live you learn. Guess I'll be swapping these out. Anyone who hasn't gotten their pots yet or built their board I would highly suggest you stay away from the center detent pots, unless you don't mind it being a bit of a hassle to fully attenuate any of the signals in the mix.

Thanks Matthias.

fonik wrote:
numbertalk wrote:
Regarding the alpha pots with center detent, I find there is more play in the detent position than I anticipated. I built my mixer a few weeks ago and found trimming it a little tricky because of this and also find that it's very difficult to fully attenuate a signal on any of the channels- it's unfortunately not simply a matter of dialing the pot to the detent position.

that's why i stopped using potentiometers with center detend. one could use two diodes to fix the center detend but then you would loose the range from -0.3V to +0.3V on the potentioemter... ahve not tried it yet. i am happy with common potentiometers.
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EdisonRex
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PostPosted: Fri Feb 13, 2009 8:15 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

numbertalk wrote:
Oh well. You live you learn. Guess I'll be swapping these out. Anyone who hasn't gotten their pots yet or built their board I would highly suggest you stay away from the center detent pots, unless you don't mind it being a bit of a hassle to fully attenuate any of the signals in the mix.


I just used 47k bog-standard Alpha pots, and they seem to work just fine.

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fonik



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PostPosted: Fri Feb 13, 2009 9:09 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

IIRC there has been a discussion on the synth-DIY list of using pots with center detent. i cant recall the whole thing, but for me at least the bottom line was to stay away from it.
so what i have done is carefully calibrating each channel for itself, that is sufficient, i think: when no offset is wanted, you would choose AC mode anyways to remove any offset.

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PostPosted: Sat Mar 14, 2009 7:46 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

I finally got one of my attenuverters built. It's a frac format. Both the AC and DC coupled Mix outputs are brought out to the panel. A sixth "Aux" input is tacked onto the mix summing point through another 47k resistor. Inputs 2-5 have toggle switches to selectively add them to the mix. The LED's a bipolar red/green. The panel started out as one of Blacet's blank panels and a local shop lasered the graphics for me.


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fonik



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PostPosted: Sun Mar 15, 2009 4:28 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Shocked
man, what a nice build. great module.

i't liked to ask you if i could post this picture on my site?

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PostPosted: Sun Mar 15, 2009 7:26 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Quote:
could post this picture on my site?
Absolutely! Glad you like it. Thanks for great PCBs, docs, etc.
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 15, 2009 11:37 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

fonik wrote:
numbertalk wrote:
Regarding the alpha pots with center detent, I find there is more play in the detent position than I anticipated. I built my mixer a few weeks ago and found trimming it a little tricky because of this and also find that it's very difficult to fully attenuate a signal on any of the channels- it's unfortunately not simply a matter of dialing the pot to the detent position.

that's why i stopped using potentiometers with center detend. one could use two diodes to fix the center detend but then you would loose the range from -0.3V to +0.3V on the potentioemter... ahve not tried it yet. i am happy with common potentiometers.

i have built two of this mixers also with center detent alpha pots but gladly i also have muteswitches for each input.
I could calibrate the center detent pot only this way that it only goes to zero when allways turning from the same direction back to zero.


I use the module often to feed an offset to my VCOs to get them into LFO range ( anyware-instruments VCOs ) that brings me to the next point and the next post ...........
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 15, 2009 11:43 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

I would like to have more of this utility mixers,
but with a precision voltage referenze for the CV offset.
Seems to be a need when offsetting VCOs
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fonik



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PostPosted: Sun Mar 15, 2009 12:52 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

the offset function was originally meant as a goody, not a major feature of this module. the offset voltage changes whenever you turn one of the processing potentiometers.
nevertheless one could improve the perfomance of the offset function or stabaliue it by replacing the two resistors of the voltage divider creating the 7.5V by a 1k resistor and a Zener Diode. this has been entioned by serenadi (member here), i implemented it and will post the details soon.

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etaoin



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PostPosted: Fri Apr 17, 2009 1:26 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

This new "Lunar Experience" module looks suspiciously similar...

http://www.lunar-experience.com/525.html

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fonik



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PostPosted: Fri Apr 17, 2009 1:48 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

i met gerd at the musikmesse and we have had a short talk. he does this stuff for decades as a hobby and has recently been talked into selling modules, IIRC. his website does not reflect his modest and humble character, i believe.

i would say, his attenuverter does not mix signals, has no optical indication and no DC-mode. his mixers inputs are not normalled to a reference voltage.

i still believe the fonitronik attenuverting mixer is a very versatile module - if it ever would come to a 3rd run, i would improve and add some features (real stable reference voltage, on/off switches for each channel).

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PostPosted: Fri Apr 17, 2009 1:54 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

His first input (and by way of chaining, all the others) is connected to a +10V reference.
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