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 Forum index » DIY Hardware and Software
Putting Together The Dim-C Clone - AKA LUSH Deluxe
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Scott Stites
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 07, 2008 1:18 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

It's right on the tip of my cerebrum, but I just can't pull it out....electronic something something.....damn!! I bought stuff from them like three times - I'm getting old, I guess.....
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Scott Stites
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 07, 2008 1:27 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Ah-HA!

http://www.electronix.com/

Dat's da place.....

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Scott Stites
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 07, 2008 1:32 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

2SK30 - .49 apiece. Hmm..people who bought that also bought the BA718...wonder who that coulda been. Laughing

M5218's also - mine were DIP (orig Dim C were SIP).

Seems I did get some of the trannies from MCMinone, too - I think I got the PNPs here, though....or maybe it's the other way around Laughing

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Blue Hell
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 07, 2008 4:35 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Djeez man Scott, if you wouldn't have a reputation here I'd have taken this for a spam thread Shocked Laughing

I'm having the same thing .. words wont pop up .. must be a side effect from the monetary crisis ... nothing to worry about ... Wink

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also .. could someone please turn down the thermostat a bit.
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Scott Stites
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 07, 2008 9:23 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Well, I think...um...uh....yeah....what it is....that thing you said.......yeah....

Anyhoo, this place is pretty good - never had a problem with them. Unlike my brain......

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numbertalk



Joined: May 05, 2008
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 08, 2008 6:29 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Thanks. I've ordered from them before a while ago too actually.
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numbertalk



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PostPosted: Mon Oct 13, 2008 11:09 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

In the documentation that came with the board, for calibrating the CV you say to make sure R209 is fully CCW but 209 is a fixed resistor - I'm assuming the names changed and you mean the CV level control pot, VR501 on the schematic, but just wanted to make sure.
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no-fi



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PostPosted: Sun Oct 19, 2008 3:46 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

hello all!

This is my first post here - I got into this project through the offer on group DIY.

ANYWAY - I have built up my lush deluxe PCB a few weeks ago, and really loving the sound of it so far.

I had a bit of a slow down for a while when I decided I really wanted a 4 gang interlocking switch assembly for the preset selection rather than 3 toggle switches, but I sorted that out (damn - I had no idea how much of a hassle getting one of these things would be!) and am finally ready to continue.

I'm currently doing a layout in front panel designer just so i can work out where I want everything before I start drilling my panel. (might share it here if anyone is interested, just for an alternative idea for people, once I figured out exactly what's going on it.)

Anyway - relating to my panel layout, I have a question about SW105 - the mono/stereo switch.

My 1/4 jacks have an isolated N.C. SPST switch inside them. so I was thinking I could use this switch on output B's jack, to have the unit run in mono mode unless a plug is inserted in output B.... but if I do this, is there anything I will miss out on in terms of the sounds I can get? is it ever really useful to use both A and B outputs in mono mode??

way I see it, with the switched jack in B, I have:
A only: one output, unit in mono (summed) mode.
B only: one output, unit in stereo (not-summed) mode.
A & B: dual output, stereo mode.



Also - I really wanted to go with switched pots for the manual frequency and depth controls, but couldn't find any switched pots with SPDT switches that I'd need... and don't really want to start chucking relays in the box just for this feature... Does anyone know of a place I can get SPDT switched pots?

I'm really looking forward to getting this beautiful chorus effect racked up and into my music.


thanks,


Julian
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numbertalk



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PostPosted: Sun Oct 19, 2008 8:01 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Hi John,

For VR3 & VR4 (for LFO Rate & Depth), which pot lug goes into pin 1 (the square pin, right?) - the CW lug or the CCW lug (looking at the pot from the top/knob-side?

Thanks.
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urbanscallywag



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PostPosted: Sun Oct 19, 2008 9:49 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Switched pots for the manual controls sounds cool! Cool
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jfromel



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PostPosted: Sun Oct 19, 2008 10:07 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Number Talk, With the shaft of the pot facing up as you turn the shaft counter clockwise it is turning towards Lug 1

Urbanscallywag, what pots did you use?
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urbanscallywag



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PostPosted: Sun Oct 19, 2008 10:31 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

My Lush Deluxe isn't done yet. Sad

I was replying to no-fi's idea.
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jfromel



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PostPosted: Sun Oct 19, 2008 11:26 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

mouser has SPDT switched pots, I have used them

http://www.mouser.com/Search/Refine.aspx?Keyword=313-1100F-
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no-fi



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PostPosted: Mon Oct 20, 2008 1:48 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

mouser seems to class these as SPST, not SPDT. and the taiwan alpha website seems a bit unhelpful as to actual specs relating to that part number range (but has AWESOME theme music...)

But the 1601 series of that range from the same catalogue page looks like it might work - though switch is push-pull...
http://www.mouser.com/Search/Refine.aspx?Keyword=313-1601F-



any advice on my SW105 question??
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numbertalk



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PostPosted: Mon Oct 20, 2008 6:41 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Thanks!

I'm almost done with my board! Actually trying to add TZF & bypass options through 2 daughter boards - we'll see how that turns out. I'm pretty confident about the TZF following Scott's design - we'll see how it sounds (I know Scott didn't find it to be the best TZF sound). Hosting the entire bypass circuit off-board with wires kludged to the 3 bypass spots on-board, I'm not quite so confident about. Wanted to give it a shot, though, since I'm building this in a rack mount and will very likely use it with guitar as well. Who knows, I love chorus so much and this one sounds so good I might never want to bypass it anyway.
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Scott Stites
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 20, 2008 12:02 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Oh, it's a nice enough TZF sound, I think. Here's an example of it in something I recorded last March, but, for obvious reasons, never posted. It was sort of a "stop, record this patch, move on" moment.

The Klee is controlling one VCO and the DSC2000, the fumble-fingered bass is the DW6000, and the SH-201 is passing through the Dim C/TZF, and coming out the TZF output. So, the flanging you hear in the sample is the TZF. I wasn't paying much attention to the recording levels, so the sample a bit low and noisy, but there you go....

Cheerios,
Scott


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numbertalk



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PostPosted: Mon Oct 20, 2008 1:27 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Oops - sorry to misrepresent Embarassed

Sample sounds great - really looking forward to having this project built.

Scott Stites wrote:
Oh, it's a nice enough TZF sound, I think. Here's an example of it in something I recorded last March, but, for obvious reasons, never posted. It was sort of a "stop, record this patch, move on" moment.

The Klee is controlling one VCO and the DSC2000, the fumble-fingered bass is the DW6000, and the SH-201 is passing through the Dim C/TZF, and coming out the TZF output. So, the flanging you hear in the sample is the TZF. I wasn't paying much attention to the recording levels, so the sample a bit low and noisy, but there you go....

Cheerios,
Scott
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numbertalk



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PostPosted: Mon Oct 20, 2008 6:26 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

jfromel wrote:
Number Talk, With the shaft of the pot facing up as you turn the shaft counter clockwise it is turning towards Lug 1


I'm confused then, because for VR1 & VR2, if the square pad is pin 1 on the PCB, this has the volume controls hooked up backwards, doesn't it? Pin 3 is ground (the 3rd pad for each of gang of this pot, starting from the square one) for each of these which would correspond to lug 3, which would be the clockwise lug.
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jfromel



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PostPosted: Mon Oct 20, 2008 6:49 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

You are correct that if you are considering it to be a volume knob it is backwards. I am thinking of it as an input buffer so that Full CCW has no buffer, as you turn clockwise more of the signal is buffered.

So if you want it to call it a buffer then wire it up as is, if you want to call it a volume knob then wire it up backwards. I should have indicated the CCW direction on the schem since I inverted the symbol. My Bad
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numbertalk



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PostPosted: Mon Oct 20, 2008 7:21 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Ah, ok. Makes sense.

So for the rate & depth pots, wiring up the CCW lug to the square pad will give the expected behavior (as you turn the knob CW the rate/depth will increase)?

Thanks.

jfromel wrote:
You are correct that if you are considering it to be a volume knob it is backwards. I am thinking of it as an input buffer so that Full CCW has no buffer, as you turn clockwise more of the signal is buffered.

So if you want it to call it a buffer then wire it up as is, if you want to call it a volume knob then wire it up backwards. I should have indicated the CCW direction on the schem since I inverted the symbol. My Bad
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jfromel



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PostPosted: Mon Oct 20, 2008 9:58 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

You are correct about the rate/depth knobs, also if you are going to wire the buffer up as a Volume you should use an audio taper pot and if used as a buffer a Linear taper would work best.
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numbertalk



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PostPosted: Wed Oct 22, 2008 12:06 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

In relation to my questions about how to wire the input pots, as far as the CV pot goes, in regards to calibrating the trimmer for the CV circuit, should the CV pot be turned all the way down (fully CCW) if wired as a volume pot (ground wired at lug 1) or should it be turned all the way up (fully CW)?

EDIT - Also, should the CV pot be an audio pot if wired this way or is linear ok?

Thanks!
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jfromel



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PostPosted: Wed Oct 22, 2008 1:17 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Scott may be the best one to answer this as he designed the CV circuit. On Scotts schem he has pin 3 to ground (component inverted) and it says adjust RT502 to 3.5V at TP501 with VR501 fully CCW and no CV input.

Pot should be linear taper either way.
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numbertalk



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PostPosted: Wed Oct 22, 2008 8:03 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

I figured if Scott had it turned with the knob turned all the way away from ground that I'd do it that way, even with the pot wired differently. Scott, please correct me if this is incorrect.

I can't be the first one to have finished one of these, can I? Got it calibrated this evening (but I haven't tried out the CV yet) and it sounds fantastic. You can see I'm toying around with tapping out TZF from the NE570. Sounds great and am going to try to find a way to carefully get those wires to stay in there. Think I'm going to have to give up on the idea of kludging in bypass, though, as much as I'd like to have it. Feel too nervous soldering wires in on the top of the board, especially if I were to go to all that trouble and it didn't really work.

I can't believe I got all those headers connected in there - it was really tight!


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numbertalk



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PostPosted: Wed Oct 22, 2008 8:07 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

By the way, in the documentation you sent along with the board, I believe you have the test points and which trimmer each goes with backwards. I was wondering why the sine wave on my scope wasn't changing until I tried adjusting the other trimmer (plus the correct trimmer for each test point is located closer to the test point than the way your doc has it, so that made me a little suspicious).
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