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 Forum index » DIY Hardware and Software » Klee sequencer
Electro-Music Klee Sequencer Build and Applications Thread
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Photon



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PostPosted: Sat Mar 08, 2008 8:20 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Thats not the actual one. I found that on the web. But the one where I work is also a Bridgeport, very similar setup, except it only has numerical readout on the x and y axis. The one in the photo looks like it has z as well.
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Scott Stites
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 09, 2008 7:01 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Either way, that panel is beautiful!
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Uncle Krunkus
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 10, 2008 1:50 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Yep, I second that. Very nice layout photon! Very Happy
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Photon



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PostPosted: Mon Mar 10, 2008 1:41 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Thanks guys Very Happy

Yeah, I'm really looking forward to this one! I had to finish a few modules before I could justify jumping in to Kleedom. Now theres nothing holding me back (except work, wife and a few other minor obligations like sleeping)

p.
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a.b.o.z.



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PostPosted: Mon Mar 10, 2008 2:06 pm    Post subject:   Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

I still didn't find the time to debug my Klee but I manage to become a father.
Andrija is the guy. Healthy and beautiful Smile
Pretty cool.
love love flower
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Scott Stites
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 10, 2008 2:07 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Infinitely more important than debugging a Klee. Congratulations!!!!!!!!
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State Machine
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 10, 2008 3:47 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Quote:
I still didn't find the time to debug my Klee but I manage to become a father.
Andrija is the guy. Healthy and beautiful


Now thats wonderful news !!! too much coffee Congratulations Very Happy

Bill
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Danno Gee Ray



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PostPosted: Mon Mar 10, 2008 4:25 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Yes, Wonderful news. Congratulations to you both!
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Uncle Krunkus
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 10, 2008 4:49 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Congratulations a.b.o.z.!!!!
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Sound



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PostPosted: Fri Mar 14, 2008 5:37 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Scott Stites wrote:
The datasheet for the switch can be found here:

NKK Rotary Switch PDF

Not cheap, but well worth it. I got it at Allied Electronics here

Cheers,
Scott

[Edit Blue Hell: shortened the link]


It is not clear to me what rotary switch is. The link to the pdf is general information about it.

Could anyone tell me what rotary switch is needed for the Klee?
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Uncle Krunkus
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 14, 2008 6:27 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

The voltage scaler uses a rotary to choose what the max voltage will be. This is the voltage which will be the max value for each pot/slider. The board is set up to use an eight position rotary switch. If you use a binary encoded rotary, you can bypass the diodes and connect straight to the 3 address lines. (which I put extra pads on to help with this and other mods)
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 14, 2008 6:39 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Right. Most rotary switches have a maximum number of positions, but allow you to set the number of actual positions you want on the switch. For example, the switch in the PDF mentions that it has an adjustable stopper plate that allows anywhere from 2 to 12 positions with the switch. With the Klee, you would set it to 8 positions.

Cheerios,
Scott

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Scott Stites
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 14, 2008 6:41 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

So, generally, you would need an 8 throw switch with a single pole.
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Scott Stites
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 14, 2008 6:44 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Unless you went with Uncle K's BCD arrangement, of course Very Happy
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Sound



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PostPosted: Fri Mar 14, 2008 11:29 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Very, very interesting... I didn't know what was a encoder... so... with three toggle switch I have a encoder also Mr. Green only three diodes?

Anyway I see that the NKK rotary don't have a 6mm D shaft.? for put the same knob all.

I go ahead looking for encoder or rotary switch with 6mm D shaft... or... three toggles... Very Happy
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a.b.o.z.



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PostPosted: Sun Mar 16, 2008 5:10 am    Post subject:   Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

got to my Klee this morning.
I did the 1K resistor over manual step switch and it is working like a charm.
Advancing one step how it should.
And when unplugged from PSU with man. step pressed resistance between +12 and ground is 1K26.

Did I do something wrong? Why is this?
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Scott Stites
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 16, 2008 8:50 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread



Quote:
Did I do something wrong? Why is this?


No, I don't think you did anything wrong. Back when you first reported the problem, I measured the resistance there, too, with the power off. My resistance was actually a bit lower - I owe that to the fact there's a lot of stuff between the switch and ground that is in the off state.

The step switch was the biggest PITA of the whole proto process - IIRC, the original design worked fine for me and fine for Tom - I think Andy's did too. Bill's proto would skip steps (IIRC). We did a lot of trouble-shooting and research into different methods of debouncing the switch. If you've got the time to check the original Model 2 schematics against the electro-music Klee, you'll see that portion was beefed up and rearranged a bit.

With the configuration we came up with, all four protos operated reliably and correctly, but it didn't quite explain why they didn't with the original values. And, you may recall, I experienced something similar in the early stages of breadboarding - I got around it, but I never understood it.

My theory is, what it boils down to is that the circuit relies on current going to a certain point within a certain amount of time, which is controlled by capacitance. In a circuit like that, I think a certain unknown is the inductance of the wiring that will occur from build to build, and inductance does play a part in such a circuit. Now, why that would have the effect on the power supply it has is beyond me (a brain of Ian's size would need to step in there), but that's my theory. In the case of the breadboard problem I experienced, I could put some more resistance in at that point (like you did), or I could just tap from ground further down the line -either method worked for me at the time.

Having all the protos work gave us the confidence to be able to get any step switch to work should anyone encounter any problem with it (assuming the momentary is a decent switch). I think generally, by and large, most of them will work right off the bat. Should there be any funkyness in anyone's build, we know pretty much what to do.

What ground point did you use, BTW, during the 1K tap test?

Oh, and please, if you find the time, post a pic of that bad boy with lights ablazing - I'd like to see that Very Happy

Cheerio,
Scott

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a.b.o.z.



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PostPosted: Sun Mar 16, 2008 9:21 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

I just connected two pins of that switch together with 1K resistor.
One of the pins is connected to digital ground.
You want picture of manual step switch?
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a.b.o.z.



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PostPosted: Sun Mar 16, 2008 9:44 am    Post subject: mss Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

manual step switch
this is the one: http://futurlec.com/Switches/SPBLUE.shtml


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Scott Stites
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 16, 2008 10:56 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

There's your problem - the wiring is too neat. Laughing
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a.b.o.z.



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PostPosted: Sun Mar 16, 2008 12:10 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

say what?


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State Machine
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 16, 2008 1:00 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Quote:
And when unplugged from PSU with man. step pressed resistance between +12 and ground is 1K26.


... and you say when the unit is energized and you activate this pushbutton, the 12V supply gets loaded ?? and .... When you bridge these very same switch contacts, it does not load the supply and the unit advances correctly? Are my facts correct ???

Thanks
Bill
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Scott Stites
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 16, 2008 1:07 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Quote:
say what?


Now that's more like it Laughing

My Klee is still early contemporary rat's nest......

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a.b.o.z.



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PostPosted: Sun Mar 16, 2008 3:56 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

State Machine wrote:
Quote:
And when unplugged from PSU with man. step pressed resistance between +12 and ground is 1K26.


... and you say when the unit is energized and you activate this pushbutton, the 12V supply gets loaded ?? and .... When you bridge these very same switch contacts, it does not load the supply and the unit advances correctly? Are my facts correct ???

Thanks
Bill

jep you got it.
unplugged resistance +12/ground is 1K26
plugged goes crazy and freez psu
bridged with 1K works ok
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vtl5c3



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PostPosted: Mon Mar 17, 2008 9:23 am    Post subject: Mouser Switch Recommendation? Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

I kinda went ape this weekend and drilled out two panels for my two forthcoming Klees. In preparation for stuffing parts onto the panels, I need to order switches. If anyone has has ordered theirs from Mouser, which part numbers did you order?
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