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A Beginner in a Fonitronik SSM2044 VCF
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fonik



Joined: Jun 07, 2006
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 13, 2008 8:22 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

how is it, oscar?

unfortunately i don't had the time to take a closer look at my modules for now.

nevertheless a suggestion: stay with the values for R17, R16, R11, R8 and T1 to keep the filter scalable for 1V/oct. lower the values for R9 to widen the response of the cutoff potentiometer (R23 is already lowered to 75k according to the latest documentation rev 3.2 from 25 Oct 2007)

http://www.modular.fonik.de/pdf/ssm2044_rev32.pdf

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Sound



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PostPosted: Sun Jan 13, 2008 10:44 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Mr. Green

I'm here trying and trying.

If you change a component value it has effects at different points of the circuit.

According my measurements the filter at 15V can self oscillate 2hz to 20khz. The frequency potentiometer span response is eg 20hz to 5,5Khz or eg 40hz to 8Khz.

The filter at 12V can self oscillate 2hz to 20khz, but the frequency potentiometer span response is reduced to eg 20 hz to 1,6Khz or eg 40 to 3khz.

I'm trying, like you know, to increase the Frequency potentiometer response, but eg when I achieve it I lost the V/Octave control...

I'm thinking that the easy way would be to have a modular synthesizer with two power supplies...

But I would like to achieve a potentiometer frequency response about 20Hz to 10K. Very Happy

I will try your suggestion.

The filter is amazing. sounds very good. Yesterday I did a very good conga sound. Pulse to audio in. frequency a bit modulated by audio. Very Happy .



EDIT: curiosity: would be possible to change R9 for a precision trimmer? If it is possible, would be necessary to ground the third leg?

Thanks.
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prophei



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PostPosted: Sun Jan 13, 2008 11:39 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

i had issues with the cutoff range when i built my first version pcb. eventually i found that changing some values fixed the range rather well.

here was the discussion:

http://www.electro-music.com/forum/topic-17838.html&postorder=asc&highlight=ssm2044&start=50

...in case it might cover some stuff that this thread has not...
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fonik



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PostPosted: Sun Jan 13, 2008 12:52 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

i'd say bypass R15/R15' and lower the value of R9 as appropriate...
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Sound



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PostPosted: Mon Jan 14, 2008 9:33 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Prophei,

thanks! But with your configuration is lost the V/Octave. And this is important to me.

Fonik,

If R9=100K and R15,15' = 0
I didn't achieve more span frequency potentiometer response. But the potentiometer only works 11h to 13h.

If R9=68K and R15,R15' = 47K
I didn't achieve more span frequency potentiometer response. But the potentiometer only works 9h to 15h.

Following the circuit you can see that all Frequency CV go to the SSM2044 "freq control" through R16.

So, (From the original circuit) I changed R16 to 120K. I achieved more span frequency potentiometer response but I lost the V/Octave!

I changed R11 to 220K. I recovered the V/Octave but! I lost span frequency potentiometer response. It is the same that at the beginning!

I have changed R9 to 68K and now yes! I achieved 20hz to 6Khz. If I go down more the value of R9 I don't achieve more frequency response.

That is a little bit more than if the filter worked at 15V. It is enough to me. Very Happy

But Maybe... Mr. Green I will try to go down a little more R16 and R11 values in the way that it allow me to go down with R9 and R15 values for open the response of the potentiometer.
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Sound



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PostPosted: Mon Jan 14, 2008 11:04 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Very Happy

I have achieved it!

16hz to 16Khz!

R16=100K
R11=180K
R15,R15'=22k

Perfect V/octave.

If there isn't any mistake I will go to next step, solder the components to the PCB and while I will design and order the front panels.

One question: why the resistor R17 is mounted directly to the SSM2044?
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etaoin



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PostPosted: Mon Jan 14, 2008 1:42 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

sound wrote:
One question: why the resistor R17 is mounted directly to the SSM2044?


This is a temperatue dependend resistor which will correct tuning drift caused by temperature changes. For best effect, it needs to be the same temperatue as the SSM2044. Mounting them on top of eachother will more or less achieve that.

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fonik



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PostPosted: Tue Jan 15, 2008 5:15 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

sound wrote:
Very Happy

I have achieved it!

16hz to 16Khz!

R16=100K
R11=180K
R15,R15'=22k

Perfect V/octave.

If there isn't any mistake I will go to next step, solder the components to the PCB and while I will design and order the front panels.


great job, oscar - congrats! beer
you gave a good example of what a breadboard is worth.
and you gave a very good example on how patience and a systematic work out are rewarded.

if you don't mind i would incorporate your observations to the documentation?

hope you'll like the module...

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Sound



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PostPosted: Tue Jan 15, 2008 7:22 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Etaoin wrote:
sound wrote:
One question: why the resistor R17 is mounted directly to the SSM2044?


This is a temperatue dependend resistor which will correct tuning drift caused by temperature changes. For best effect, it needs to be the same temperatue as the SSM2044. Mounting them on top of eachother will more or less achieve that.


Thanks Etoain.

Other question:

A standard 1K resistor will be more stable if it is mounted over the SSM2044?
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Sound



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PostPosted: Tue Jan 15, 2008 8:16 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

fonik wrote:

if you don't mind i would incorporate your observations to the documentation?


Hi fonik!

Of course! It is an honour. Very Happy

The same configuration at 15 V gives you a span frequency knob response 2,7hz to 20 Khz!!!! (low frequency was manual timed)

R16=100K
R11=180K
R15, R15’=22k

The following configuration at 15V gives you 16hz to 16Khz:
R16=100K
R11=180K
R15, R15’= 33K

All this was tested with a R17 standard 1K resistor. I don’t understand why with the PT146 1K resistor the filter stops to self oscillate at 3Khz/4Khz
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Sound



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PostPosted: Sun Feb 17, 2008 1:44 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Hi.

I' m still Mr. Green trying to choose knobs, colors, frontpanel design...

Well, for now I have chosen the way that I want to build them. I saw it in this interesting web side: http://homepage2.nifty.com/rjb/labo.htm the Japanese is a little dificult Mr. Green to me but there are a lot of interesting pictures.

Anyone can tell me what is the name of the hexagonal piece that I marked in red. And where I can found it?


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diy_vcf033.JPG
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Danno Gee Ray



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PostPosted: Sun Feb 17, 2008 1:49 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Those are called standoffs. Available at Mouser, Digikey, etc.
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Sound



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PostPosted: Tue Feb 19, 2008 6:50 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Thanks Danno,

I found it, but I'm designing now the front panel, and is a little dificult to place the standoofs without touch other components. I think that the other possibilty is put the PCB perpendicular to the front panel holding it with brackets. I'm looking on the net but i dind't found it.

Which brackets must I choose? where I can buy it? any reference number?
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fonik



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PostPosted: Tue Feb 19, 2008 7:03 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

i just buy sheets of 0.5mm steel at the property market and cut them with plate shears, rasp and file the edges and drill it with my drill press. finaly i clamp it between to pieces of wood and bend it, improving the crook/angle using a hammer.
with a little practice you will be able to make your own cheap brackets within minutes...

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Sound



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PostPosted: Tue Feb 19, 2008 8:04 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

fonik wrote:
i just buy sheets of 0.5mm steel at the property market and cut them with plate shears, rasp and file the edges and drill it with my drill press. finaly i clamp it between to pieces of wood and bend it, improving the crook/angle using a hammer.
with a little practice you will be able to make your own cheap brackets within minutes...


Yes it is the best option, thanks.

So, the front panel is ready to order Smile It is 12hp front panel and because the ergonomics was my important point I adjust the measures for space the knobs to maximum. The potentiometers must be 12mm diameter (with 16mm pot it will not enter in the rack). Any advice will be welcome. The cost is 27€ and 17€ without infill engravings. I did the HPGL for text labels with Front Designer 3.0 And all the other with Front Panel Designer.

This thread helps me a lot: http://www.electro-music.com/forum/topic-20883.html
http://www.schaeffer-ag.de/

I ask Schaeffer for a samples of the colors and they sent me a sample of each alluminium that they use, but at the end, play with the colors of the front panel and the color of knobs may be difficult. So at the end I choosed natural anodized aluminium that is grey and easy to combine with white, black and grey.



Fonik! fonitronik or fonitronic? Very Happy


Edited
to update frontpanel file.


fonitronik2044.fpd
 Description:
Only for 12mm potentiometer.

Download (listen)
 Filename:  fonitronik2044.fpd
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Last edited by Sound on Tue Mar 11, 2008 6:24 am; edited 1 time in total
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fonik



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PostPosted: Tue Feb 19, 2008 8:09 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

i finaly settled with K Wink
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fonik



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PostPosted: Tue Feb 19, 2008 8:15 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

sound wrote:
The potentiometers must be 12mm diameter (with 16mm pot it will not enter in the rack). Any advice will be welcome.

you may want to think it twice. i don't know which brand of potentiometers you are using. i am with 16mm alpha potentiometers and the 12mm are hard to get and don't come in all values (AFAIK).
following doepfer measures you will be able to place 5 16mm alphas in one column.
my actual point: decide carefully which potentiometers you want to use now and in future. then decide how to lay out your panel standard.

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Sound



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PostPosted: Tue Feb 19, 2008 8:29 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

fonik wrote:
sound wrote:
The potentiometers must be 12mm diameter (with 16mm pot it will not enter in the rack). Any advice will be welcome.

you may want to think it twice. i don't know which brand of potentiometers you are using. i am with 16mm alpha potentiometers and the 12mm are hard to get and don't come in all values (AFAIK).
following doepfer measures you will be able to place 5 16mm alphas in one column.
my actual point: decide carefully which potentiometers you want to use now and in future. then decide how to lay out your panel standard.


fonik,

I like the knobs very spacied, about 18mm. Not less than 25mm within centers. Five knobs in one column not is confortable to me. So I have chosen Four knobs by column.

The pot that I have chosen is the alpha 12mm. But is true what you say maybe I can adjust the measures to add the possibilty of mount 16mm pots, in fact I only win 2mm.

I prefer thes ones because they will be more easy to place in the frontpanel and also they seems more soft to move. I will check this point again, thanks.
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Tim Servo



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PostPosted: Tue Feb 19, 2008 1:07 pm    Post subject: A Beginner in a Fonitronik SSM2044 VCF Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

fonik wrote:
sound wrote:
The potentiometers must be 12mm diameter (with 16mm pot it will not enter in the rack). Any advice will be welcome.

you may want to think it twice. i don't know which brand of potentiometers you are using. i am with 16mm alpha potentiometers and the 12mm are hard to get and don't come in all values (AFAIK).
following doepfer measures you will be able to place 5 16mm alphas in one column.
my actual point: decide carefully which potentiometers you want to use now and in future. then decide how to lay out your panel standard.


Hey Fonik,

Actually, Mouser carries the 12mm Alphas and they're available in a variety of values, linear and audio tapers, pc mount and wire lug. The part number for a 100k linear is 313-1210F-100k. They're a little over $2 each, but that drops to $1.60 if you buy 10 or more. Search for this at Mouser and you'll get the right catalog page with the other 12mm listings. I know that may not be as attractive for our friends outside the US, but I do agree with your advice to pick readily available panel components, and then design face panels based on that.


Tim (if Alpha sent you a letter, would that be Alpha mail?) Servo
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fonik



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PostPosted: Tue Feb 19, 2008 2:16 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

hello tim,

the first alpha potentiometers i ever bought were just these 12mm panel mount alpha potentiometers from mouser.
i know that there were some values not available in 12mm but 16mm package - but maybe that has changed meanwhile (don't know which value it was i did't find, but it was a common one...)

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Sound



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PostPosted: Fri Feb 29, 2008 11:59 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Hi guys,

If you see the attached front panel you can notice that I added an attenuated CV.

I would like to show you how I add an attenuated VC to the two filters Mr. Green .

First I solded some components, after I remembered that I would add the CV, Scratch the PCB was more difficult but I did it. Also I have connected the cutoff positive and negative instead positive and ground. Also I forget to solder the decoupled capacitors before the IC sockets and it was more difficult after... but i did.

Maybe it would have been more easy to sold the wires at the PCB instead the put the sockets.

The filters are tested and they work perfectly! 16hz to 20Khz and 10V Pk-Pk, measured with my new Owon 5022 oscilloscope.

I'm very Glad waiting for the front panels. Very Happy

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Sound



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PostPosted: Fri Feb 29, 2008 12:04 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

A question, How I can do a better contact with the resistor 17 and the SSM 2044? I know that it is done with resine epoxi, but I don't like this material.

Is it possible with standard silicone or any kind of it?


Thaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaanks!
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Tallhobbit



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PostPosted: Fri Feb 29, 2008 12:11 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

For reworkable thermal contact, I use Arctic Silver 5. For a permanent thermal bond I use Arctic Silver thermal adhesive.

http://www.arcticsilver.com/products.htm

I prefer the adhesive and usually add a "service loop" to my tempco leads.

James
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frijitz



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PostPosted: Fri Feb 29, 2008 12:42 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

fonik wrote:
i am puzzled...

I have an idea! The tempco may be inducing oscillations. This is quite common. Try putting a small cap (20pF - 100pF) across it.

I have suggested that this may also be the reason the RW VCO only tracks over 3-5 oct. But nobody (including RW) seems to want to check it out.

Rolling Eyes

Ian
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fonik



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PostPosted: Fri Feb 29, 2008 2:58 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

ian, what could oscillate and where? how would this affect the tracking?
as you might know, i don't know much about circuit design and i am not that good in maths (i used to be in school, but that's ages ago Wink ), so plain words would be fine.

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