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 Forum index » DIY Hardware and Software » Jürgen Haible designs
Schulte Compact A Phasing
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jhaible



Joined: May 25, 2007
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 04, 2008 1:43 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Mr Clack wrote:

whats the smallest transformer I can use? I mean what region of current will this need?


Less than 200mA.

Quote:
Would there be any point in heatsinking the regulators to the case? I understand you cant electronically contact a regulator to chassis ground i will insulate that - pointless maybe


Yes, if you use insulation between the transistors / regulators and the heatsink, you can fix the heatsinks to the (grounded !!) chassis.
It's the better solution thermally, anyway. But you have to keep wires short to prevent oscillation.

Quote:
6.5v 300mA 0.97W

One of these numbers must be wrong.

JH.

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Clack



Joined: Aug 08, 2005
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 04, 2008 2:40 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

[quote="jhaible"]
Mr Clack wrote:


Quote:
6.5v 300mA 0.97W

One of these numbers must be wrong.

JH.


hmm yes - I meant to post this one

6.5V 150mA 0.6W 70

from Here

sorry for the fuss - ill just buy them from the dutch place see what happens

thanks for the info it was helpfull Very Happy

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softfin



Joined: Oct 11, 2006
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PostPosted: Thu Feb 07, 2008 7:55 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Thanks JH! I received my boards today. I didn't get any LDRs, though. I suppose they will be shipped separately later...?
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jhaible



Joined: May 25, 2007
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PostPosted: Thu Feb 07, 2008 10:46 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

softfin wrote:
Thanks JH! I received my boards today. I didn't get any LDRs, though. I suppose they will be shipped separately later...?


Have you looked between the two boards? The LDRs should be sandwiched there ...

If you don't have them - can you tell me under what name you have ordered? (I've sold a few boards without LDRs after the LDR-order-deadline, too - just making sure you're not among these.)

JH.

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softfin



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PostPosted: Fri Feb 08, 2008 3:36 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

jhaible wrote:


Have you looked between the two boards? The LDRs should be sandwiched there ...



Embarassed Now I have. All LDRs are included like they should!
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b-funk



Joined: Jul 17, 2007
Posts: 193
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 11, 2008 1:56 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

i populated my first board, and besides i have the wrong relays, it´s working. it´s working GREAT!!!

cool stuff, really...

i´ll post some pics tomorrow...

best wishes,

tobias
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Luka



Joined: Jun 29, 2007
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 11, 2008 4:31 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

boards arrived in australia
thanks jurgen

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morbank



Joined: Jan 30, 2008
Posts: 58
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 11, 2008 10:51 pm    Post subject: Capacitors? Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Hello All, sounds like some of you are already playing with your phasers! As for me i've nearly got all the components, but I can't find the right sizes for some of the capacitors. If anyone can point me towards finding the following (preferably on Mouser), I'd greatly appreciate it!

1 x 33pF Ceramic (2.5mm spacing)
1 x 680pF Ceramic (2.5mm spacing)
1 x 1nF Ceramic (2.5mm spacing)
8 x 33nF (Cx) (5mm or 7.5mm spacing)
1 x 100nF (u1) (5mm)
1 x 220nF (u22) (5mm or 7.5mm spacing)
1 x 220nF (u22) (5mm spacing)
1 x 1uF (5mm or 7.5mm or 10mm spacing)

Also, any tips for what transformer to get and where to connect it would help too.
Thanks, Clay
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jhaible



Joined: May 25, 2007
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 11, 2008 11:56 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

b-funk wrote:
i populated my first board, and besides i have the wrong relays, it´s working. it´s working GREAT!!!

cool stuff, really...

i´ll post some pics tomorrow...

best wishes,

tobias


Congratulations!
For what I know, you're the first one who has finished it!

JH.

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"I tell you the truth, if anyone says to this mountain, 'Go, throw yourself into the sea,' and does not doubt in his heart but believes that what he says will happen, it will be done for him. Therefore I tell you, whatever you ask for in prayer, believe that you have received it, and it will be yours." (Mk 11,23f)
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b-funk



Joined: Jul 17, 2007
Posts: 193
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 12, 2008 2:45 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

so, did i win the price?
what is it? what is it?
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etaoin



Joined: Jun 30, 2005
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 12, 2008 3:37 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Mine's finished as well.

I also needed to hardwire the relay points as my relay didn't work either (Futurlec HFD2-12). The LED switches on and off, but the relay doesn't. I think I have another DIP one somewhere so I'll try that.


schulte_compact.jpg
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etaoin



Joined: Jun 30, 2005
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 12, 2008 5:08 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

I haven't adsjusted any trimmers yet, so I'm not sure mine sounds like it is supposed to sound, but I did an mp3 anyway:

http://www.casia.org/modular/mp3/schultephaser.mp3

Getting this feedback is pretty tricky. There's little room between resonance and oscillation.

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etaoin



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PostPosted: Tue Feb 12, 2008 8:44 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Etaoin wrote:
I also needed to hardwire the relay points as my relay didn't work either (Futurlec HFD2-12)


I can now confirm that it was indeed the relay. I also have an old Takamisawa RY12W and that works fine.

Not sure why the Futurlec one won't work. The coil measures around 700 ohms so it's not dead (at least not the coil). It came brand new from Taiwan anyway.

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etaoin



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PostPosted: Tue Feb 12, 2008 11:05 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

BTW, I replaced the mp3 above as I found that actually connecting the third lamp makes quite a difference to the sound Very Happy
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b-funk



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PostPosted: Tue Feb 12, 2008 4:00 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

pix... ok, etaoin, you beat me with that... nice work btw...

tomorrow i´ll try another relay, hope it works.

best wishes,

tobias.


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the-brothers-phazor.jpg
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the brothers...
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jhaible



Joined: May 25, 2007
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 12, 2008 4:36 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

b-funk wrote:

tomorrow i´ll try another relay, hope it works.


Strange about these relays.

If you hook it up directly to 15V, with a 100 Ohm resistor in series, does it work then?

Is your BD239 that drives the relay a C type? (Beta high enough?)

JH.

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b-funk



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PostPosted: Tue Feb 12, 2008 4:43 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

jürgen,

yes, i use a c type...

i´ll try your suggestion to hook it up to 15 volts if the new relay fails, too...
strange thing that also etaoin had similar problems...

best wishes,

tobias.
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etaoin



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PostPosted: Wed Feb 13, 2008 12:50 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

My BD239 is also a C-type.

By the way, is the relay supposed to get slightly warm?

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etaoin



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PostPosted: Wed Feb 13, 2008 12:58 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

The Futurlec relay is fine connected straight to 15V (with the 100 ohm resistor).
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jhaible



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PostPosted: Wed Feb 13, 2008 2:28 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Etaoin wrote:
The Futurlec relay is fine connected straight to 15V (with the 100 ohm resistor).


All right. Then probably the transistor's beta is too small.
Try a smaller value for R77 (see http://www.jhaible.heim.at/compact_clone/jh_krautrock_phaser_refdes.pdf)
Formerly 10k - try 4.7k .

If this doesn't help, I probably have to specify a different transistor type.

Oh, and befor you do anything else:

With the Relay soldered in, try shorting D15 momentarily with a piece of wire (bypassing the transistor), and see if the relay works correctly.

Sorry for having to go thru these procedures. I knew the BD239C is a bit on the low side of beta (even the C type), but I wanted to keep component variation low.
If your relay doesn't need more than 100mA, you could even use a small signal transistor like the BC550C (but watch the different pinout:
BD239 is B-C-E. BC550C is C-B-E. All seen srom the side where the numbers are printed on the plastic.)

JH.

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"I tell you the truth, if anyone says to this mountain, 'Go, throw yourself into the sea,' and does not doubt in his heart but believes that what he says will happen, it will be done for him. Therefore I tell you, whatever you ask for in prayer, believe that you have received it, and it will be yours." (Mk 11,23f)
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etaoin



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PostPosted: Wed Feb 13, 2008 3:14 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Found it. The Futurlec relay has a reversed polarity coil. It needs + at pin 1. It won't switch the other way round. The Takamisawa one I have is non-polar.
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jhaible



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PostPosted: Wed Feb 13, 2008 10:44 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Etaoin wrote:
Found it. The Futurlec relay has a reversed polarity coil. It needs + at pin 1. It won't switch the other way round. The Takamisawa one I have is non-polar.


I see. They probably have a free-wheel diode inside, too, which may explain things getting warm.

Haven't thought about polarized relays, otherwise I'd have reversed the two connections.

JH.

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"I tell you the truth, if anyone says to this mountain, 'Go, throw yourself into the sea,' and does not doubt in his heart but believes that what he says will happen, it will be done for him. Therefore I tell you, whatever you ask for in prayer, believe that you have received it, and it will be yours." (Mk 11,23f)
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etaoin



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PostPosted: Wed Feb 13, 2008 10:46 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

jhaible wrote:
I see. They probably have a free-wheel diode inside, too, which may explain things getting warm.


It's the non-polarized one that gets warm. I haven't been able to use the polarized one Wink

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jhaible



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PostPosted: Wed Feb 13, 2008 10:48 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Etaoin wrote:
jhaible wrote:
I see. They probably have a free-wheel diode inside, too, which may explain things getting warm.


It's the non-polarized one that gets warm. I haven't been able to use the polarized one Wink


But the non-polarized works?

JH.

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etaoin



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PostPosted: Wed Feb 13, 2008 11:14 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

jhaible wrote:
But the non-polarized works?


Yes, that's fine otherwise.

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