110-115V to 220-230V or visa versa

Blue Hell · Posted: Sat Oct 22, 2011 5:00 am Post subject:

One thing is luck, the exact moment of switch on relative to the current phase angle of the mains voltage determines what will happen.

The other thing may be that the mains voltage happened to be a bit on the low side in one occasion and a bit on the high side in another, there can easily be a deviation of like plus 5% or minus 10% relative to the nominal voltage.

varice · Posted: Sat Oct 22, 2011 12:06 pm Post subject:

Also, the step-down voltage convertor may not be well regulated (especially if is just a passive step-down transformer), which could result in the output being more than 115V.

But, with a proper 250ma Slow-Blow type fuse, you should be good to go.

re · Joined: Jan 07, 2012 Posts: 2 Location: australia

Hi guys - newbie here, not to Nords, but to swapping voltages and the like. I recently moved from Canada to Australia and brought along my Electro 2 and a Nord Piano. Each have switches for voltage, no problem there. However, I'm trying to source new fuses.. the back of each Nord states "115V 300mA". Wondering if I should be looking for 150mA fuses for each? Any help appreciated, thx!

Blue Hell · Posted: Sat Jan 07, 2012 7:47 pm Post subject:

Yeah that should work, make sure they are slow blow (T Type).

and welcome

varice · Posted: Sat Jan 07, 2012 10:11 pm Post subject:

Hello re

to the electro-music forum Exclamation

Yes, for a 230VAC mains, 150mA slow blow fuses are what you need to replace 300mA fuses used for 115VAC.

Now that’s one hell of a relocation – Canada to Australia Exclamation

Good luck in your new home in the land down under.

re · Joined: Jan 07, 2012 Posts: 2 Location: australia

Thanks everyone, 150mA seems to have done the trick.
As for the relocation, not gonna lie, it's pretty nice down here right now and it's a welcome change from snow and ice and cold.
Cheers!

ndiiorio · Posted: Fri Aug 10, 2012 8:07 pm Post subject:

Hello my friends! I currently bought a Nord Piano 2 in the US! And i am waiting for it to get to my country which is Buenos Aires Argentina! The piano will be 110 and here we have 220 voltage. So I understand I can open the piano and change the voltage but I am somehow confused with the fuse. I should get a 230/250v 125mA slow bow fuses (T Type)? or 150mA? I saw in the second post that after 2000 nord products for 220 is 125 right? And whats all that about the types? I will be greatful with the answer! I want to be prepared when my piano gets here! I don't want to break something :S jajaja thanks!

Blue Hell · Posted: Sat Aug 11, 2012 8:04 am Post subject:

Re. the fuse .. slow blow means that it will stay alive when you switch the synth on ... and the worst thing that can happen is that the fuse blows (when you correctly switched the device to the right voltage of course ;-) )

Removed your duplicate post BTW.

ndiiorio · Posted: Sat Aug 11, 2012 9:36 am Post subject:

So am I correct with the fuse? I think they delete my post because I don't find it! Sorry for the double post!

Blue Hell · Posted: Sat Aug 11, 2012 9:45 am Post subject:

Yes I removed it Wink

And yes you are correct about the fuse.

If still not certain look what fuse is in it now, and divide the mA or A rating by 2 ... so if it now says 300 mA you'll want 150 mA ... and when it now says 250 mA you'll want 125 mA ...

When the value is on the low side the fuse may blow occasionally, but it is not too critical and it will not damage anything, just up it a bit when it blows occasionally.

rjp2 · Joined: Oct 01, 2010 Posts: 6 Location: West Coast

i'm in montreal canada what is the proper fuse for me to use on my nord rack? the back sticker says 115V 250mA slow blow but the one currently inside says 1/4A 250V and looks like a regular fuse.

Blue Hell · Posted: Mon Aug 20, 2012 10:23 am Post subject:

Yes .. 1/4 A == 250 mA Shocked

ark · Posted: Thu Aug 23, 2012 9:28 pm Post subject:

In case the preceding explanation was not clear: The voltage rating on a fuse doesn't matter as long as it's higher than the voltage you're using. So if you need a 250 mA 110V fuse, you can use one marked 250 mA or 1/4 A, which are equivalent, so long as the rating is 110V or more (i.e. you shouldn't use a 6V fuse, because it's not guaranteed that if that fuse blows, it will really interrupt a high-voltage circuit). So a fuse marked 250 mA at either 125V or 250V will work fine.

As for fast-blow vs. slow-blow: If you substitute a fast-blow fuse for a slow-blow one, it may blow when it shouldn't. If you substitute the other way around, a fault might fry your circuitry where the fast-blow fuse might have protected it. So if a slow-blow fuse is acceptable, you shouldn't worry about what kind of fuse you have unless it blows; then replace it with a slow-blow Smile

Blue Hell · Posted: Fri Aug 24, 2012 7:06 am Post subject:

That last issue got resolved in the chatroom BTW ... turned out to not be a fuse problem but a MIDI related problem Rolling Eyes

jonah · Joined: Sep 29, 2012 Posts: 16 Location: us

so i was at radio shack to buy a 250 mA fuse for a nord modular g2 and i noticed they all had amp ratings as well Surprised

....what's the right one to get? thanks.

oh did i confuse 250v with 250 mA uhhg. Embarassed

too tired.

note to self don't insert fuse holder without fuse. Shocked

that is not a safe place to keep it!

docsample · Joined: Feb 20, 2016 Posts: 4 Location: Utah

hi, read this thread and have a clarifying question.

i recently purchased a UK nord g2 engine over ebay so i am in the usa on 120V.

opened the case and flipped the switch over to 115V no problem.

i am having trouble sourcing the correct fuse according to this thread. the g2 came with a 250V 125mA fuse. the local radioshack did not have a 125V 250mA fuse but the seemingly knowledgeable guy at the shop said i should be okay with the 250V fuse as the device will only draw 115V.

is this correct and i don't need a new fuse? i am waiting to turn on the device until i can find out for sure. thanks in advance!!!!

Blue Hell · Posted: Sat Feb 20, 2016 12:27 pm Post subject:

The short answer : yes.

The longer one: go up a couple of posts to ark's.

And also welcome

docsample

docsample · Joined: Feb 20, 2016 Posts: 4 Location: Utah

thanks. will try this one out then. i read ark's post but he didnt' talk about the current so wasn't sure. thanks for the help.

edit: all plugged in and working now. thanks for the feedback!

kiwibirch · Joined: Apr 28, 2016 Posts: 5 Location: New Zealand

Hi,

I've got a Nord Rack 1 from Japan and want to use it here in NZ on 230v.

Looking at the PSU board it has the 110 and 230 jumper points on the PCB but they are not jumperd to any of the possible 110 or 230 settings!

I would have expected to see both 110v jumpers connected as per the initial posts on this topic. Is it possible this unit has a different japan only power supply that doesn't make use of the jumpers on the PCB??

The cover of the main unit on the PCB is grey not blue. It is also marked with 115v 50/60HZ. (and somewhat confusingly a USA sticker!!) I could post some pics if this is not clear..

If I flip the unit over and look at the bottom there is a 100v 50/60hz sticker in silver.
The rear Voltage rating sticker is 115v!! ...

I want to convert it to 230v by soldering the 230v jumper but i'm afraid the PSU is different in this version and might fry itself.

Anyone have any ideas?

Blue Hell · Posted: Sun May 01, 2016 3:57 pm Post subject:

That is a lot of confusing information indeed ... in the end .. what is on the transformer itself is true .. when that one says 115V only it would be 115V only ... but usually there are two windings that can be put in series or parallel ...

Could you post some pictures of the PSU?

Maybe that would clear it up.

kiwibirch · Joined: Apr 28, 2016 Posts: 5 Location: New Zealand

Hi,

Photos, see what you think of them

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Blue Hell · Posted: Mon May 02, 2016 11:55 am Post subject:

Ok, well, as I said, the transformer does not lie ...so it seems possible to convert it to 230V.

The odd thing though is that there are no visible jumpers neither the two 110 V ones nor the single 220 V one - I think you should have a look at the other (under) side of that PSU board to see what was done.

edit: added (under)

kiwibirch · Joined: Apr 28, 2016 Posts: 5 Location: New Zealand

I emailed Clavia and they said the same thing - i.e check the underside of the board. Will have a look today and report back

thanks

kiwibirch · Joined: Apr 28, 2016 Posts: 5 Location: New Zealand

Hi,

removed the board and it has the 110v jumpers soldered on the underside. Picture of underside of board attached.

So i take it then i just remove these two connections and connect for 220v by soldering the inner connections as per the initial diagrams in this thread?

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Blue Hell · Posted: Tue May 03, 2016 2:54 am Post subject:

Riddle solved yeah, remove the two and place the 220V one.