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 Forum index » DIY Hardware and Software
Fun useful tips
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Blue Hell
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Joined: Apr 03, 2004
Posts: 23500
Location: The Netherlands, Enschede
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PostPosted: Sat Feb 22, 2020 2:48 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Ayab wrote:
A rubber band works amazingly well to open difficult jars to (sorry for the girly tip! :oops)


Laughing cool trick Exclamation - going to tell my mom about it too Cool

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Jan
also .. could someone please turn down the thermostat a bit.
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Voskhod02



Joined: Feb 27, 2020
Posts: 5
Location: Saratov, Russia

PostPosted: Fri Feb 28, 2020 7:54 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

How do you even use a jar with a rubber band? Do you wrap it around the lid and use the increased traction to pull it open, or is there some kind of black magic at work?
Meanwhile, while I'm supposed to write a report about this Montenegro citizenship program https://tranio.com/montenegro/passport/, I discovered that you're supposed to pour juice/milk/whatever comes in a carton with the opening on top, and not on the bottom, because there aren't waves and bubbles to disrupt the stream like that. And of course, when it's half empty (half full for optimists), then you put the opening at the bottom when pouring it.
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Ayab



Joined: Oct 27, 2015
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Location: London, UK

PostPosted: Fri Feb 28, 2020 2:30 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Rubber band around the lid usually works. For extra difficult jars a separate band around the body of the jar for extra grip works well. The band on the lid is best to be the right size to be tight and only going round once - not doubled over.

Better think of a synth related tip now!
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Voskhod02



Joined: Feb 27, 2020
Posts: 5
Location: Saratov, Russia

PostPosted: Fri Feb 28, 2020 2:41 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Okay, so the trick does work thanks to the increased traction offered by rubber, thanks for the explanation!
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AlanP



Joined: Mar 11, 2014
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PostPosted: Fri Feb 28, 2020 4:13 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

A dry teatowel over the lid also works, or your untucked shirt.
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gabbagabi



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PostPosted: Sat Feb 29, 2020 12:55 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

trust me Cool
the BEST way to open a glas is a spoon or the back of a fork
put it like that
https://i.ytimg.com/vi/C7GUF2cLm7w/maxresdefault.jpg
press it softly until you hear the Glass breathing in
then open it without any force
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PHOBoS



Joined: Jan 14, 2010
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PostPosted: Sat Feb 29, 2020 4:45 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

lifitng the lid is only useful if it is hard to open because of a vacuum, then it does work though. I usually use the rubber-band-around-the-lid
but sometimes it does indeed work better to use a towel because it gives you more to hold on to. You can also use a hammer to smash the glass.
besides opening jars rubber bands can be used to make music.

And if you have some spoons and are feeling adventurous you could build this:
Posted Image, might have been reduced in size. Click Image to view fullscreen.

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Ayab



Joined: Oct 27, 2015
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Location: London, UK

PostPosted: Mon Mar 23, 2020 8:30 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Laughing

That is brilliant.
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PHOBoS



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PostPosted: Wed Jan 27, 2021 8:48 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

some tips on using a desoldering gun, although it's pretty straight forward it took me some trial and error to get a technique that works for me (YMMV).

I am using the ZD-8915 which is identical to the SS-331H you can get from china (I got mine from https://www.eleshop.nl/ which was actually cheaper
and of course faster delivered). So far I've only used the smallest nozzle (it comes with 3 sizes) but it will probably work the same for all of them.

I set it at a temperature of 375C (for leaded solder on a double sided PCB).
don't put any pressure on it just let gravity do the work, you also don't have to move it around on the solderpad.
give it enough time to melt the solder, about 3 seconds works for me, before sucking it up.
it can get clogged rather fast but comes with some small rods to clean it. I clean it after about every 5 desoldered pins. (It might be different with a
larger nozzle though it's not the nozzle itself that gets clogged)*
I clean the solder collection tube and the filter after about 100 desoldered pins. I recommend to order some extra filters for the gun right away.
There is also a filter on the base but that one doesn't really get dirty.
As with other desoldering methods you might have to apply come fresh solder if you can't get it cleaned out in one go.

* edit: just read some reviews and apparently a higher temperature (450C) will prevent it from clogging.

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PHOBoS



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PostPosted: Mon Feb 08, 2021 6:50 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

something to look out for when buying breadboards.

Of course you could choose to get it from a well known supplier like digikey or mouser and I would expect those breadboards will function great.
But if you're like me and try to spend as little money as possible there are cheaper options from china (ebay, alixpress, banggood etc)
However, there are some cheap breadboards out there that are practically useless because you can't really insert components.
I did once get a couple of those and there is something I have noticed you can look out for that might help you recognize them.

The most standard breadboard type (like the MB-102) has letters and numbers printed on them to indicate the rows and columns.
On the crappy ones the letters are reversed on the same rows, so on one side it would be labeled as A while on the other side the
same row is labeled as J (and upside down). The numbers are reversed as well. Of course what you see in photos isn't always what
you get but if you see this I would recommend to avoid it.

attached is a photo (from ebay) that shows an example of what to avoid.


crappy MB102 breadboard.jpg
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crappy MB102 breadboard.jpg



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Psynth



Joined: Jul 18, 2018
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 09, 2021 11:12 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

When you smell burning, turn it all off and keep looking until you find the source:


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PHOBoS



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PostPosted: Wed Feb 10, 2021 8:06 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

I know that smell, did it smoke too ?

These days I often do a quick test where I use my fingers to check if anything gets warm after powering up. Also measure for shorts before powering up.

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Psynth



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PostPosted: Thu Feb 11, 2021 11:18 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Oh yes, smoke. It was actually a module already in my synth, a simple fixed voltage source providing +1V, +2V, +5V, and -1,-2, -5. Hence the use of the LT1013. Not sure what happened, it worked fine for years, suspect I shorted the output (though the opamp is meant to withstand a short indefinitely).

Bit disconcerting to smell burning from the cabinet, open it up, and see smoke!) Fortunately no other modules were damaged. The power supply was pretty hot though.
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