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jhaible
Joined: May 25, 2007
Posts: 2014
Location: Germany
Audio files: 24
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 Posted: Sun Mar 01, 2009 2:28 am Post subject:
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| moosapotamus wrote: | Ah yes! That was it! Installed a 1.0uF for C8 and the LFO is working! Thank you Jürgen! 
Also tried the CV input and it does not work as I drew it above, with the jack sleeve connected to ground. Instead, the jack still needs to be insulated from ground, like this...
So it's just a matter of using a mono normaled jack instead of a stereo normaled jack.
Thanks, again!
~ Charlie |
Sorry about the GND thing. If you only want this jack for CV, connect the sleeve to GND, but then *don't* connect it to the pin on the PCB which is not at GND level.
JH.
_________________
"I tell you the truth, if anyone says to this mountain, 'Go, throw yourself into the sea,' and does not doubt in his heart but believes that what he says will happen, it will be done for him. Therefore I tell you, whatever you ask for in prayer, believe that you have received it, and it will be yours." (Mk 11,23f) |
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moosapotamus
Joined: May 11, 2007
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Location: New Hampshire USA
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| Posted: Sun Mar 01, 2009 3:56 pm Post subject:
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No problem. I also tried CV IN with it wired using a stereo jack as shown in the schematic and it seemed to work just fine that way, too.
Thanks
~ Charlie
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jhaible
Joined: May 25, 2007
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| Posted: Sun Mar 01, 2009 4:28 pm Post subject:
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| moosapotamus wrote: | No problem. I also tried CV IN with it wired using a stereo jack as shown in the schematic and it seemed to work just fine that way, too.
Thanks
~ Charlie |
Yes, but you create a short if there is any other GND connction between the Krautrock and your CV-feeding device!
JH.
_________________
"I tell you the truth, if anyone says to this mountain, 'Go, throw yourself into the sea,' and does not doubt in his heart but believes that what he says will happen, it will be done for him. Therefore I tell you, whatever you ask for in prayer, believe that you have received it, and it will be yours." (Mk 11,23f) |
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moosapotamus
Joined: May 11, 2007
Posts: 113
Location: New Hampshire USA
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| Posted: Mon Mar 02, 2009 1:46 pm Post subject:
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| jhaible wrote: | | moosapotamus wrote: | No problem. I also tried CV IN with it wired using a stereo jack as shown in the schematic and it seemed to work just fine that way, too.
Thanks
~ Charlie |
Yes, but you create a short if there is any other GND connction between the Krautrock and your CV-feeding device!
JH. |
Oh... I see that, now. Would that blow the onboard fuses? The sequencer I'm using to feed CV runs on a 12VAC wall wart. And I just discoverd that my fuses are both blown.
~ Charlie
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jhaible
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| Posted: Mon Mar 02, 2009 4:02 pm Post subject:
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| moosapotamus wrote: | | jhaible wrote: | | moosapotamus wrote: | No problem. I also tried CV IN with it wired using a stereo jack as shown in the schematic and it seemed to work just fine that way, too.
Thanks
~ Charlie |
Yes, but you create a short if there is any other GND connction between the Krautrock and your CV-feeding device!
JH. |
Oh... I see that, now. Would that blow the onboard fuses? The sequencer I'm using to feed CV runs on a 12VAC wall wart. And I just discoverd that my fuses are both blown.
~ Charlie |
Quite possible!
JH.
_________________
"I tell you the truth, if anyone says to this mountain, 'Go, throw yourself into the sea,' and does not doubt in his heart but believes that what he says will happen, it will be done for him. Therefore I tell you, whatever you ask for in prayer, believe that you have received it, and it will be yours." (Mk 11,23f) |
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ach_gott
Joined: Sep 09, 2008
Posts: 79
Location: Chicago
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| Posted: Thu Mar 05, 2009 3:02 am Post subject:
Compact clone capacitor questions |
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I'm asking some simple simon questions, partly because I'm less experieced than many in the forum, partly because I've been soldering all night, and partly because I don't want to make a stupid mistake... I have Mr. Shilly's kit.
1.) The 33nF caps in the Cx slots... I have the 5mm spacing, do I leave the extra hole open or fill it like a via?
2.) Ditto the 220nF with the 5mm or 7.5mm spacing.
3.) Where do the SMD caps go? I have all 741 ICs so I most likely need only two... but I'm staring at the underside photos on the project page and still not seeing where they belong.
4.) Bonus question: In the photographs on JH's page, there appears to be a bit of scrap connecting two holes to the left of the 10uF caps on the south side of the board, but my boards have two pairs of holes. Do I connect both with scrap?
thanks,
eric |
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jhaible
Joined: May 25, 2007
Posts: 2014
Location: Germany
Audio files: 24
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| Posted: Thu Mar 05, 2009 9:52 am Post subject:
Re: Compact clone capacitor questions |
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| ach_gott wrote: |
1.) The 33nF caps in the Cx slots... I have the 5mm spacing, do I leave the extra hole open or fill it like a via? |
just leave it open or fill it with solder.
(Filling vias is hard on my PCBs, as they are coated with solder stop coating.)
| Quote: | | 2.) Ditto the 220nF with the 5mm or 7.5mm spacing. |
Ditto.
| Quote: | | 3.) Where do the SMD caps go? I have all 741 ICs so I most likely need only two... but I'm staring at the underside photos on the project page and still not seeing where they belong. |
If you spot one footprint on the solder side (there's one beneath each opamp), you will suddenly recognize the other ones as well.
JH.
_________________
"I tell you the truth, if anyone says to this mountain, 'Go, throw yourself into the sea,' and does not doubt in his heart but believes that what he says will happen, it will be done for him. Therefore I tell you, whatever you ask for in prayer, believe that you have received it, and it will be yours." (Mk 11,23f) |
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moosapotamus
Joined: May 11, 2007
Posts: 113
Location: New Hampshire USA
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| Posted: Sun Mar 08, 2009 1:14 pm Post subject:
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Finally got some replacement fuses. All I could find was 315mA 250V. Also decided to try powering up with an 18VAC wall wart, because it would make my stompbox style build a lot easier to fit into a reasonably sized box. I first measured the output of the wall wart to make sure it was working properly and read ~20VAC at the output, so figured it was okay.
Using only pins 1 and 2 on the power connector, when I plugged in the AC wall wart it blew the onboard fuse on that side, with a little flash. So I replaced the fuse and tried applying power to the two pins on the other end of the connector. Now the fuse on that side blows with a little flash.
I do not believe there are any shorts from my soldering on the board. So I went back to my original little toroid transformer with dual secondary and it powered up fine. The output from this transformer is about 22VAC. So I guess the AC wall wart current was just too high, maybe? Anyway...
In addition, now the LFO is not working again. The bulbs on the board do not light at all, and the panel bulb is full brightness. Voltages on U3, U4 and U5 are mostly the same as they were before, except for pin 6 on U3 and U4. They are a bit higher now (especially U3 pin 6) and they seem more unstable.
| Code: |
pin U3 U4 U5
(741) (741) (1458)
1 0 0 7.84
2 7.84 7.84 7.84
3 7.45 7.84 7.83
4 0 0 0
5 0 0 2.41
6 9.10 7.70 2.41
7 14.98 14.98 2.41
8 300mV 335mV 14.98
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Could I have done some other damage (other than burning the fuses) when I tried plugging CV into the amount jack?
~ Charlie
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jhaible
Joined: May 25, 2007
Posts: 2014
Location: Germany
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| Posted: Sun Mar 08, 2009 1:24 pm Post subject:
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| moosapotamus wrote: | Finally got some replacement fuses. All I could find was 315mA 250V. Also decided to try powering up with an 18VAC wall wart, because it would make my stompbox style build a lot easier to fit into a reasonably sized box. I first measured the output of the wall wart to make sure it was working properly and read ~20VAC at the output, so figured it was okay.
Using only pins 1 and 2 on the power connector, when I plugged in the AC wall wart it blew the onboard fuse on that side, with a little flash. So I replaced the fuse and tried applying power to the two pins on the other end of the connector. Now the fuse on that side blows with a little flash.
I do not believe there are any shorts from my soldering on the board. So I went back to my original little toroid transformer with dual secondary and it powered up fine. The output from this transformer is about 22VAC. So I guess the AC wall wart current was just too high, maybe? Anyway...
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I think I see the problem. If everything was ok with a dual secondary transformer, then there should be no problem with a wall wart either - except you need twice the current than before over one fuse now.
So simply put a bigger fuse in there. Try 500mA.
JH.
_________________
"I tell you the truth, if anyone says to this mountain, 'Go, throw yourself into the sea,' and does not doubt in his heart but believes that what he says will happen, it will be done for him. Therefore I tell you, whatever you ask for in prayer, believe that you have received it, and it will be yours." (Mk 11,23f) |
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jhaible
Joined: May 25, 2007
Posts: 2014
Location: Germany
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| Posted: Sun Mar 08, 2009 1:29 pm Post subject:
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| moosapotamus wrote: |
Could I have done some other damage (other than burning the fuses) when I tried plugging CV into the amount jack? |
The opamps have current-limited outputs, but I'm not sure if they won't overheat with a short persisting over a long time. But ... U5 has the right voltages on both outputs, so I guess it's not damaged.
JH.
_________________
"I tell you the truth, if anyone says to this mountain, 'Go, throw yourself into the sea,' and does not doubt in his heart but believes that what he says will happen, it will be done for him. Therefore I tell you, whatever you ask for in prayer, believe that you have received it, and it will be yours." (Mk 11,23f) |
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moosapotamus
Joined: May 11, 2007
Posts: 113
Location: New Hampshire USA
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| Posted: Sun Mar 08, 2009 6:47 pm Post subject:
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Well, something went wrong... It was working and sounding fantastic even while I was feeding CV to it. The next day when I tried to fire it up I discovered that the fuses were blown. Now, after replacing the fuses, there is no LFO action and I can't sweep it in manual either. If the LFO opamps look good, what else could have gone wrong?
Thanks
~ Charlie
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jhaible
Joined: May 25, 2007
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| Posted: Mon Mar 09, 2009 9:47 am Post subject:
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| moosapotamus wrote: | Well, something went wrong... It was working and sounding fantastic even while I was feeding CV to it. The next day when I tried to fire it up I discovered that the fuses were blown. Now, after replacing the fuses, there is no LFO action and I can't sweep it in manual either. If the LFO opamps look good, what else could have gone wrong?
Thanks
~ Charlie |
Maybe switching from dual secondary to single secondary wasn't the reason for blowing the fuse, but it was just a coincidence with something else that was wrong?
What are the voltages on pins 6 of the opamps in the all pass filters?
Are the +15V and -15V supplies all working?
JH.
_________________
"I tell you the truth, if anyone says to this mountain, 'Go, throw yourself into the sea,' and does not doubt in his heart but believes that what he says will happen, it will be done for him. Therefore I tell you, whatever you ask for in prayer, believe that you have received it, and it will be yours." (Mk 11,23f) |
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Funky40
Joined: Sep 24, 2005
Posts: 875
Location: Swiss
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| Posted: Mon Mar 09, 2009 11:43 am Post subject:
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must finish my schulte but i'm nomore clear, sorry. ( i had a look to the schematics )
1. the Bypassswitch, is this a momentary switch ?
2. and for what is the manual/Auto switch ? |
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jhaible
Joined: May 25, 2007
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| Posted: Mon Mar 09, 2009 12:23 pm Post subject:
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| Funky40 wrote: | must finish my schulte but i'm nomore clear, sorry. ( i had a look to the schematics )
1. the Bypassswitch, is this a momentary switch ?
2. and for what is the manual/Auto switch ? |
1. Yes.
2. Auto = LFO; Manual = manual
JH.
_________________
"I tell you the truth, if anyone says to this mountain, 'Go, throw yourself into the sea,' and does not doubt in his heart but believes that what he says will happen, it will be done for him. Therefore I tell you, whatever you ask for in prayer, believe that you have received it, and it will be yours." (Mk 11,23f) |
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moosapotamus
Joined: May 11, 2007
Posts: 113
Location: New Hampshire USA
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| Posted: Mon Mar 09, 2009 4:41 pm Post subject:
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| jhaible wrote: | Maybe switching from dual secondary to single secondary wasn't the reason for blowing the fuse, but it was just a coincidence with something else that was wrong?
What are the voltages on pins 6 of the opamps in the all pass filters?
Are the +15V and -15V supplies all working?
JH. |
+/-15V power to all the opamps looks good.
Voltage on pin 6 of all of the filter amps is approximately zero, in the range of -9mV to 8mV.
~ Charlie
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jhaible
Joined: May 25, 2007
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Location: Germany
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| Posted: Tue Mar 10, 2009 12:41 am Post subject:
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| moosapotamus wrote: | | jhaible wrote: | Maybe switching from dual secondary to single secondary wasn't the reason for blowing the fuse, but it was just a coincidence with something else that was wrong?
What are the voltages on pins 6 of the opamps in the all pass filters?
Are the +15V and -15V supplies all working?
JH. |
+/-15V power to all the opamps looks good.
Voltage on pin 6 of all of the filter amps is approximately zero, in the range of -9mV to 8mV.
~ Charlie |
Then I'm pretty sure there isn't anything serious.
Are there any details, anything that's different in your setting from when you powered it up the last time, when it worked?
JH.
_________________
"I tell you the truth, if anyone says to this mountain, 'Go, throw yourself into the sea,' and does not doubt in his heart but believes that what he says will happen, it will be done for him. Therefore I tell you, whatever you ask for in prayer, believe that you have received it, and it will be yours." (Mk 11,23f) |
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Funky40
Joined: Sep 24, 2005
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| Posted: Tue Mar 10, 2009 7:00 am Post subject:
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| thanks Jürgen ! |
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moosapotamus
Joined: May 11, 2007
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Location: New Hampshire USA
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| Posted: Tue Mar 10, 2009 8:51 am Post subject:
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| jhaible wrote: | Then I'm pretty sure there isn't anything serious.
Are there any details, anything that's different in your setting from when you powered it up the last time, when it worked?
JH. |
Not much...
When it was working, I had adjusted the low lim and range trim pots to both fully CCW for maximum effect. Now I have them both centered back at 12 o'clock. Adjusting them now has no effect.
Aside from toggling the auto/manual switch back and forth, and twiddling the panel controls, that's about it.
When I originally populated the PCB, I mistakenly used the 1.0nF that is supposed to be at C30 for C8. I didn't have a 1.0uF or another 1.0nF, so I am using a pair of 0.47uF poly caps in parallel for C8, and a 1.5nF for C30. I didn't bother replacing C30 with the 1.0nF because I had already installed the heatsinks when the mistake was discovered. But that was all before I started messing with CV input, before the LFO stopped working.
One odd thing occurred last night... Again, LFO not working, panel bulb is lit, bulbs on board are not lit. I was checking pin voltages with the bypass relay switched off (circuit in bypass, LED off) and accidentally shorted pins 7 and 8 of the 1458 together with the tip of my DMM probe. For the instant that I caused the short the bulbs on the board lit up, the panel bulb went out (which is not the strange part) and the relay tripped (that's the strange part). I could not make the relay trip that way again right away, but after trying for about a minute I was able to trip the relay only a couple more times by shorting pins 7 and 8 together. That just seemed strange to me. Anyway...
I think that's about all that might be different since it was working.
~ Charlie
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jhaible
Joined: May 25, 2007
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Location: Germany
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| Posted: Tue Mar 10, 2009 10:10 am Post subject:
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| moosapotamus wrote: | | jhaible wrote: | Then I'm pretty sure there isn't anything serious.
Are there any details, anything that's different in your setting from when you powered it up the last time, when it worked?
JH. |
Not much...
When it was working, I had adjusted the low lim and range trim pots to both fully CCW for maximum effect. Now I have them both centered back at 12 o'clock. Adjusting them now has no effect.
Aside from toggling the auto/manual switch back and forth, and twiddling the panel controls, that's about it.
When I originally populated the PCB, I mistakenly used the 1.0nF that is supposed to be at C30 for C8. I didn't have a 1.0uF or another 1.0nF, so I am using a pair of 0.47uF poly caps in parallel for C8, and a 1.5nF for C30. I didn't bother replacing C30 with the 1.0nF because I had already installed the heatsinks when the mistake was discovered. But that was all before I started messing with CV input, before the LFO stopped working.
One odd thing occurred last night... Again, LFO not working, panel bulb is lit, bulbs on board are not lit. I was checking pin voltages with the bypass relay switched off (circuit in bypass, LED off) and accidentally shorted pins 7 and 8 of the 1458 together with the tip of my DMM probe. For the instant that I caused the short the bulbs on the board lit up, the panel bulb went out (which is not the strange part) and the relay tripped (that's the strange part). I could not make the relay trip that way again right away, but after trying for about a minute I was able to trip the relay only a couple more times by shorting pins 7 and 8 together. That just seemed strange to me. Anyway...
I think that's about all that might be different since it was working.
~ Charlie |
Relay tripping from a monetary short in the circuit is not strange. Especially without C30 in place.
Not sure how many shorts between bin 7 and 8 a 1458 survives. (that's an output shorted to a supply voltage, not to GND!)
Curious: Is D12 solderd in with the right direction?
JH.
_________________
"I tell you the truth, if anyone says to this mountain, 'Go, throw yourself into the sea,' and does not doubt in his heart but believes that what he says will happen, it will be done for him. Therefore I tell you, whatever you ask for in prayer, believe that you have received it, and it will be yours." (Mk 11,23f) |
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moosapotamus
Joined: May 11, 2007
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| Posted: Tue Mar 10, 2009 5:15 pm Post subject:
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Yes, D12 is in the right direction... But that doesn't mean that I am not a klutz! 
I've got all the controls, jacks and switches hooked up through a breadboard in case I need to (want to) change or fix anything. So after I finished messing with the CV input, apparently, I forgot to connect those two pins on the amount jack back together. 
So... yeaaaaay! It's working! (Of course, it was working all along. I just didn't realize it.)
JH - Thank you so much for your help and patience, and a fantastic project! 
~ Charlie
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moosapotamus
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| Posted: Tue Mar 10, 2009 5:23 pm Post subject:
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I still feel kinda silly over that amount jack thing, but I'm gonna just forge ahead anyway.
| jhaible wrote: | I think I see the problem. If everything was ok with a dual secondary transformer, then there should be no problem with a wall wart either - except you need twice the current than before over one fuse now.
So simply put a bigger fuse in there. Try 500mA.
JH. |
So if my AC wall wart is 1.0A, 18VAC (actually putting out ~20VAC), would a 500mA fuse still be big enough? Or should I try a 1.0A fuse, or maybe 2.0A?
~ Charlie
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numbernone
Joined: Aug 16, 2006
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| Posted: Tue Mar 10, 2009 6:12 pm Post subject:
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I decided to put the Solina aside and head back to it later, in order to wire up the Compact A. WOW it is amazing, totally restored my faith in my ability to build Juergen's stuff. Really a stunning effect, very luscious and tasty. A few questions.
I assume that the phasing lamps are intended to be inverted from the panel lamp?
The modulation rate does not have a huge range, including with the range trimmer involved, correct? Note I have not yet installed any control jacks in my test box, is there a theoretical maximum speed owing to the use of the lamps? It does not go nearly as fast as other phasers I have used, but sounds better than all of them.
I think that is pretty much it, I already want to build another. On to the Tau, then back to the Solina. |
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jhaible
Joined: May 25, 2007
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| Posted: Wed Mar 11, 2009 12:36 am Post subject:
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| numbernone wrote: |
I assume that the phasing lamps are intended to be inverted from the panel lamp?
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Yes.
| Quote: |
The modulation rate does not have a huge range, including with the range trimmer involved, correct? Note I have not yet installed any control jacks in my test box, is there a theoretical maximum speed owing to the use of the lamps? |
On the fast end position of the pot, you should get a "twittering bird" effect with high resonance. (Rate rather fast, but depth reduced because of the incandescent lamps.)
JH.
_________________
"I tell you the truth, if anyone says to this mountain, 'Go, throw yourself into the sea,' and does not doubt in his heart but believes that what he says will happen, it will be done for him. Therefore I tell you, whatever you ask for in prayer, believe that you have received it, and it will be yours." (Mk 11,23f) |
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jhaible
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| Posted: Wed Mar 11, 2009 12:39 am Post subject:
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| moosapotamus wrote: | I still feel kinda silly over that amount jack thing, but I'm gonna just forge ahead anyway.
| jhaible wrote: | I think I see the problem. If everything was ok with a dual secondary transformer, then there should be no problem with a wall wart either - except you need twice the current than before over one fuse now.
So simply put a bigger fuse in there. Try 500mA.
JH. |
So if my AC wall wart is 1.0A, 18VAC (actually putting out ~20VAC), would a 500mA fuse still be big enough? Or should I try a 1.0A fuse, or maybe 2.0A?
~ Charlie |
The 1A is what the wallwart can provide. The fuse just has to stand what the circuit requires (plus some headroom).
JH.
_________________
"I tell you the truth, if anyone says to this mountain, 'Go, throw yourself into the sea,' and does not doubt in his heart but believes that what he says will happen, it will be done for him. Therefore I tell you, whatever you ask for in prayer, believe that you have received it, and it will be yours." (Mk 11,23f) |
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Funky40
Joined: Sep 24, 2005
Posts: 875
Location: Swiss
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| Posted: Wed Mar 11, 2009 7:14 am Post subject:
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I have two small Issues:
1. I don't understand the Manual switch wiring. I did wrong finally.
I took a DPDT swicth and wired Pin1 of the Header to both middlepins of teh switch ,
then Pin 2 and 3 to the same end of the switch to different poles . That caused problems
2. The bypass switch is now installed.
I see now that the direct signal has much more Level than the Phaser output.
Seems to be no trimmer there for the level. Did i issed something ?
How could i increase the Phaser outputlevel ( the modulation pot settings don't affect the gain ) |
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