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 Forum index » DIY Hardware and Software
Bananalogue VCS diy board set available
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Sound



Joined: Jun 06, 2006
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PostPosted: Thu Dec 18, 2008 4:56 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

helitron wrote:
same here, ...no idea why. I just found it out by chance while testing the VC functions using a joystic as voltage source.

however I still have no clue what the trimmpot is good for. I tried what sound wrote, but I couldnt get both outputs at the same level (6.4V).


I mean peak to peak. In the output is 0V to 6.4V, and in the AC output was anything like, -4V to + 2.4.
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TekniK



Joined: Aug 10, 2008
Posts: 1059

PostPosted: Fri Dec 19, 2008 2:17 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

zthee wrote:
But from what I heard the guy who owns the rights to build Serge modules keeps everything on a tight leash? But I mean why are there practicly no Serge schematics online?
The schematics for the Serge VCS and a real CGS (2" x 6") board would be great though! Smile


You have all the schematics now!

Last edited by TekniK on Thu Aug 19, 2010 3:37 am; edited 1 time in total
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Luka



Joined: Jun 29, 2007
Posts: 1003
Location: Melb.

PostPosted: Fri Dec 19, 2008 2:42 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

do you think the vcs differs much from the envylope?
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zthee



Joined: Feb 20, 2008
Posts: 414
Location: Stockholm

PostPosted: Mon Dec 29, 2008 12:31 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

sduck wrote:
Here's the pcb in motm format -


Just realized - that your pcb has a bipolar out area. Something I don't have on my eurorack pcbs..

Though it's just a TL071 and a few other parts.. so I guess it's doable!
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sduck



Joined: Dec 16, 2007
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Location: Nashville
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PostPosted: Sun Feb 08, 2009 9:01 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

So I just finished up building this motm format version. Seems to work ok - all the pots and jacks do things, although I'm not familiar enough with the thing to know for sure if they're doing the right things.

The led doesn't work. And I was getting this weird behavior on the fall of the slope where it would dip below zero and then rise back to zero. Upon staring at the pcb enough it looked like the led wires might be labeled backwards, so I switched the wires. The led still doesn't work (I checked the led - it's functional), but the weird end of cycle behavior is gone. So perhaps I just have a wrong led type.

Fun unit - I hooked up all the patches as described on the old bananalogue page to test it, and they all work as described. The knobs are really touchy - there's some pretty big range on these things.

VCSfront

VCSback1
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andrewF



Joined: Dec 29, 2006
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Location: australia
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PostPosted: Sun Feb 08, 2009 11:32 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

I haven't seen this PCB, but if all the outputs work and just the LEd doesn't, the problem can't be too hard to sort.
would the transistor/diode/resistor near the LED holes be a LED driver subcct?
maybe it is something like Ken's LED driver PCB
Posted Image, might have been reduced in size. Click Image to view fullscreen.

edit
just found this image on P2 of this thread
Posted Image, might have been reduced in size. Click Image to view fullscreen.

it looks like the LED A&K markings are reversed. The led's cathode 'K' should go to the 1k resistor.
Also the hole marked 'K' should not be connected to 0V, that track should be cut and a connection made to +12V

this is just guesswork from looking at the PCB and Ken's led-driver. hope this doesn't blow it up
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sduck



Joined: Dec 16, 2007
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 09, 2009 7:28 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

That fixed it! I had already switched the wires, so cutting the anode wire from the led and running a wire from a 15+v rail to the cut worked. 100% working now! Thanks!
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creatorlars



Joined: Nov 26, 2007
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PostPosted: Sun Apr 12, 2009 9:25 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

I can confirm that I'm having an identical problem with the rise pot not working as it should -- I've double checked all my wiring and parts, everything's correct according to the board. This is pretty frustrating, with no schematics to look at. Sad

Any further developments with this, or anyone have theories? What exactly did you do to fix it? The module seems to work fine otherwise.
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helitron



Joined: Feb 27, 2008
Posts: 21
Location: vienna

PostPosted: Sun Apr 12, 2009 11:36 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

creatorlars wrote:
I can confirm that I'm having an identical problem with the rise pot not working as it should -- I've double checked all my wiring and parts, everything's correct according to the board. This is pretty frustrating, with no schematics to look at. Sad

Any further developments with this, or anyone have theories? What exactly did you do to fix it? The module seems to work fine otherwise.


try shorting V+ to the VC-rise socket. that helped...

hel
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creatorlars



Joined: Nov 26, 2007
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PostPosted: Sun Apr 12, 2009 11:41 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

I will try that, but won't it make the VC Rise jack/attenuator unusable? I am using banana jacks so I can't take advantage of a switched connection.
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sduck



Joined: Dec 16, 2007
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 15, 2009 7:11 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

I've seen that +15v to the rise jack mentioned several times, and it sounds bogus to me. If that was the way to fix it, then you'd have a useless jack - or one with +15v hitting everything that's plugged into it. My VCS (see above) doesn't have +15v coming out of the rise jack, and it works correctly. I'm going to have to sit for a while and compare the euro pcb against my working motm pcb and see what the difference is - I'm pretty sure it's some small error in the traces.
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Funky40



Joined: Sep 24, 2005
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PostPosted: Fri Apr 17, 2009 3:31 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

sduck wrote:
I'm going to have to sit for a while and compare the euro pcb against my working motm pcb and see what the difference is - I'm pretty sure it's some small error in the traces.

that would be very nice
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Luka



Joined: Jun 29, 2007
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PostPosted: Fri Apr 17, 2009 5:40 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

perhaps just ask ken
he designed the pcb and is currently working on a new VCS pcb for his CGS range so he might give you some support

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TekniK



Joined: Aug 10, 2008
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PostPosted: Sat May 30, 2009 3:11 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Okay, a demo with this VCS,with VC control of rise & fall (only one VCS in this patch)
Last edited by TekniK on Thu Aug 19, 2010 3:37 am; edited 1 time in total
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pristak



Joined: Nov 17, 2006
Posts: 37
Location: Dallas, Texas

PostPosted: Sun May 31, 2009 7:04 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

I just finished one of mine last night. Mine are the MOTM single board version. It was 2am so I need to put it through it's paces today once the family wakes up but I confirmed it did some of what it is supposed to do last night.
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koura



Joined: Feb 02, 2009
Posts: 13
Location: chicago

PostPosted: Fri Jun 19, 2009 6:35 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

unit-sound wrote:
>> I shorted V+ to the VC-rise socket
jan


Any update on this fix?
About to finish building a board a got and wanted to see how this has worked out. To be 100% clear you are shorting V+ to the VC-rise input which is a switched jack? If its not a switched jack I would assume this couldn't work as you would constantly have V+ going through regardless of the input.
thanks for any info as i know this is an old thread by now
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TekniK



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PostPosted: Fri Jun 19, 2009 12:15 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

The board where sold to us with an error,and those asses did know it very well,now u know why no support was given!,bastards.

just do this 'debug' and it will work like it should be:
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e-grad



Joined: Sep 12, 2008
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 19, 2009 2:50 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Thanks for sharing!
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janvanvolt



Joined: Nov 24, 2005
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Location: Mainz, Germany

PostPosted: Mon Oct 12, 2009 6:52 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

I still have issues (after having +/- 15V reversed at one time). Nothing seems to work Sad

Exchanged already are all IC's and Transistors.
The "kludge" has also been applied.

Any ideas on how to debug this lovely VCS ? It's sad it does nothing.

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TekniK



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PostPosted: Mon Oct 12, 2009 11:38 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

should work,re-check your wiring ,soldering and components
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janvanvolt



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PostPosted: Tue Oct 13, 2009 3:44 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

I've got one the "original" boards from Bananalogue, so this is a bit different from the CGS version...
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TekniK



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PostPosted: Tue Oct 13, 2009 5:02 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

unit-sound wrote:
I've got one the "original" boards from Bananalogue, so this is a bit different from the CGS version...


am not talking abouth the CGS version either.
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fadeddata



Joined: Dec 27, 2004
Posts: 43
Location: Nashville TN

PostPosted: Tue Oct 13, 2009 4:16 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

unit-sound, I've got one of the original's as well Smile

I had to make one additional kludge to get it to work.

Before making this change verify that ~15V is hitting the cathodes on the Trigger/End/etc board diodes. If so you have a board like mine and maybe the attached pic will help.

Seems there were many different VCs boards made. Mine had pin 4 of the LM3900 going to the cathodes of the trigger section instead of coming off zener diode which I think holds the voltage at ~5V. After fixing this and adjusting the trimmer my VCs started working!

Also make sure to cut the traces before and after the diodes (you can see in the pic)


IMG_3849.JPG
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janvanvolt



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PostPosted: Tue Oct 13, 2009 4:19 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Okay, got it sorted out. It was the Inter-PCB wiring as well as two defective 2N's
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TekniK



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PostPosted: Wed Oct 14, 2009 3:28 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

unit-sound wrote:
Okay, got it sorted out. It was the Inter-PCB wiring as well as two defective 2N's


Like i told Wink
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