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Cfish

Joined: Feb 24, 2016 Posts: 477 Location: Indiana
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PHOBoS

Joined: Jan 14, 2010 Posts: 5792 Location: Moon Base
Audio files: 709
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Cfish

Joined: Feb 24, 2016 Posts: 477 Location: Indiana
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Posted: Tue Nov 15, 2016 5:05 pm Post subject:
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Not sure how to accomplish that move PhoBose? I'm happy to do anything I can to try to make this passion as easy as possible for anyone that might be interested.
(Edit) move made thanks to PhoBose Last edited by Cfish on Tue Nov 15, 2016 5:45 pm; edited 1 time in total |
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PHOBoS

Joined: Jan 14, 2010 Posts: 5792 Location: Moon Base
Audio files: 709
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AlanP
Joined: Mar 11, 2014 Posts: 746 Location: New Zealand
Audio files: 41
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Posted: Tue Nov 15, 2016 6:26 pm Post subject:
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If I have a bunch of resistors to populate a board with, of one value, all on that paper tape stuff, I have an old blunt steak knife on the table that I use to bend all of the legs on one side, then all the legs on the other (a thin straight edge, basically.) Then rip the resistors off the tape, 2 or 3 at a time, et voila. Resistors with legs bend en masse.
Super massively useful tip: Bostik BLU TACK. Use it to hold components in place while you solder, use it to hold a small PCB in place while you solder, use it to hold wires in place while you work. Amazing, wonderful stuff. |
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Grumble

Joined: Nov 23, 2015 Posts: 1310 Location: Netherlands
Audio files: 30
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Cfish

Joined: Feb 24, 2016 Posts: 477 Location: Indiana
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PHOBoS

Joined: Jan 14, 2010 Posts: 5792 Location: Moon Base
Audio files: 709
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LFLab
Joined: Dec 17, 2009 Posts: 497 Location: Rosmalen, Netherlands
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Posted: Tue Nov 29, 2016 12:06 pm Post subject:
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With respect to steelwool shown above, I use very fine steelwool (0000?) To clean pcbs and the tip of my soldering iron. It is very soft, so it doesn't damage anything.
One major point of concern is TO NOT LET IT TOUCH A BATTERY!
I have spare batteries and other stuff around, and it happened to me twice that I absentmindedly put my steelwool somewhere, and immediately thought "wait there was also a battery in that bin".
It glows very hot upon contact with a battery, and will start a fire easily (survival tip). |
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PHOBoS

Joined: Jan 14, 2010 Posts: 5792 Location: Moon Base
Audio files: 709
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Posted: Tue Nov 29, 2016 12:23 pm Post subject:
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I used to play around with steelwool in a jar and a car battery, gives a great effect
what you see in the photo is actually one of these:
it just has been used a lot so it lost its shape.
I guess regular steelwool will work but might not be the best idea for stripboard
because strands can easily break off and cause shorts between tracks. _________________ "My perf, it's full of holes!"
http://phobos.000space.com/
SoundCloud BandCamp MixCloud Stickney Synthyards Captain Collider Twitch YouTube |
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LFLab
Joined: Dec 17, 2009 Posts: 497 Location: Rosmalen, Netherlands
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Posted: Wed Nov 30, 2016 1:34 am Post subject:
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I know, "RVS pannenspons" ,but that's too coarse for my use. Also use the finer stuff to prepare PCB's for toner transfer. |
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Grumble

Joined: Nov 23, 2015 Posts: 1310 Location: Netherlands
Audio files: 30
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Posted: Wed Nov 30, 2016 2:03 am Post subject:
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I'm sure I have posted this link before, but this looks like a good place to spam it again:
http://sim.okawa-denshi.jp/en/
A great site where you can interactively do calculations on opamps, filters etc.
I use this a lot when designing electronic stuff... |
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alanwilder81
Joined: Sep 03, 2016 Posts: 310 Location: italy
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Posted: Wed Nov 30, 2016 6:14 am Post subject:
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great thread Cfish,
a place where many ideas can get together and help us improve our building techniques, or more simply to give anyone a chance to ask questions about anything related to DIY synthesizers. |
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alanwilder81
Joined: Sep 03, 2016 Posts: 310 Location: italy
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Posted: Wed Nov 30, 2016 6:30 am Post subject:
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i would like to ask a question regarding perfboard builds.
I used to do them when i was a little kid, but now it's time to move on to a more professional result.
Once soldered the components on the perfboard,whats the best way to connect them with a wire?
thats my technique i've been taught. i want to hear your methodology as well.
step 1 ) i wet a wire end with some solder
step 2) with the iron tip, i solder the wire end onto the already soldered component on the perfboard ( say a resistor ).
The way i do it ,has been working for long, but, my doubt is,doesnt the 2 step require some extra solder , in order for the wire and the component to glue better together? Or, am i doing it just right?
I know that it would take a third hand of some sort of but , whatever, you get the idea !
thanks |
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alanwilder81
Joined: Sep 03, 2016 Posts: 310 Location: italy
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LFLab
Joined: Dec 17, 2009 Posts: 497 Location: Rosmalen, Netherlands
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Posted: Wed Nov 30, 2016 7:53 am Post subject:
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Yeah, that's the stuff I use.
WRT perfing, I just leave the legs on components and use those long legs to connect them together, only in rare cases (and accompanied by loud cursing) am I using separate wire to hook components up together.
For information on how one of the analogue electronics (late) greats did it, see:
Linear app note 47, appendix F
From the era where there were some REALLY colourful engineers
For more on Jim williams:
http://readingjimwilliams.blogspot.co.uk/ |
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alanwilder81
Joined: Sep 03, 2016 Posts: 310 Location: italy
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Posted: Wed Nov 30, 2016 8:08 am Post subject:
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thanks LFlab,
i ve come to understand that careful planning perfs is the key. I will try to use component lead as much as i can. And where they may not reach, well, add extra bare wire, after tinning it.
I am about to get my modules together,after testing on breadboard,so i am a bit excited about that and want to get it right.  |
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PHOBoS

Joined: Jan 14, 2010 Posts: 5792 Location: Moon Base
Audio files: 709
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alanwilder81
Joined: Sep 03, 2016 Posts: 310 Location: italy
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Posted: Wed Nov 30, 2016 11:35 am Post subject:
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thanks Phobos,
i know there are so many ways to get it right, although the majority of engineers seems to prefer the way you described.
Your job depicted in that picture is spot on.Absolutely came together! clean and tidy, i will draw some inspiration from that  |
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alanwilder81
Joined: Sep 03, 2016 Posts: 310 Location: italy
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Posted: Wed Nov 30, 2016 11:39 am Post subject:
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just one question, how do you call in english those four things towards the corners of the perfboard that serve to screw and tighten the perfboard itself onto?I am planning to get a bunch of them to fix my modules onto pine wood panels! cheers!  |
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LFLab
Joined: Dec 17, 2009 Posts: 497 Location: Rosmalen, Netherlands
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Posted: Wed Nov 30, 2016 12:23 pm Post subject:
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"Standoff" usually M3 threaded, at least, this side of the pond.
You can get them with female thread on both sides an one male one female end.
I recently bought a great bunch of them at either dx.com or banggood.com for little money, in various lengths.
Edit:
Dealextreme it was, see below:
http://www.dx.com/s/brass+m3 Last edited by LFLab on Wed Nov 30, 2016 2:59 pm; edited 2 times in total |
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PHOBoS

Joined: Jan 14, 2010 Posts: 5792 Location: Moon Base
Audio files: 709
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prgdeltablues
Joined: Sep 25, 2006 Posts: 222 Location: UK
Audio files: 12
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Posted: Thu Dec 01, 2016 11:13 am Post subject:
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My tip:
Remember to slide the heatshrink onto the wire before you solder both ends (voice of experience)
I've got into the habit of measuring the resistance between V+, ground and V- before I install any ICs, and checking the result against the schematic. It won't guarantee you don't have any shorts, but a useful addition to a careful visual check.
Also, after installing two or three ICs, I check the V+ and V- voltages: my bench test supply has 10-20 Ohm resistors in series, so there is a small voltage drop as more current is drawn - but it ought only to be small!
Peter |
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alanwilder81
Joined: Sep 03, 2016 Posts: 310 Location: italy
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Posted: Thu Dec 01, 2016 11:17 am Post subject:
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to Phobos and LFlab |
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alanwilder81
Joined: Sep 03, 2016 Posts: 310 Location: italy
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Posted: Thu Dec 01, 2016 11:23 am Post subject:
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i use CAT-5 cable ,i dont know what heatshrink is really.
Anyway,great of Peter to share his tricks !  |
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