Putting Together The Dim-C Clone - AKA LUSH Deluxe

numbernone · Joined: Aug 16, 2006 Posts: 477 Location: new york city

Hey if anyone happens to have the board handy, how big is it? I wanted to order an enlcosure today to beat the holidays but if orgot to measure Embarassed

If not I can wait til 2009, it has taken me THIS long after all.

jfromel · Joined: May 27, 2008 Posts: 79 Location: Seattle, WA

Just finished a build of this as a really big pedal

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numbernone · Joined: Aug 16, 2006 Posts: 477 Location: new york city

WOW Beautiful!

Still need to finish mine...

Have any pics of the inside? I can hardly believe it is all in there, the case being so shallow.

numbernone · Joined: Aug 16, 2006 Posts: 477 Location: new york city

WOW Beautiful!

Still need to finish mine...

Have any pics of the inside? I can hardly believe it is all in there, the case being so shallow.

numbertalk · Posted: Fri Feb 06, 2009 12:26 pm Post subject:

I can't believe you got all the wiring and everything in such a small box!

jfromel · Joined: May 27, 2008 Posts: 79 Location: Seattle, WA

Thanks,

It's a tight fit, I built a jig that was basically the box without the sides so I could work with it a little better. There 10' of wire carrying audio signal and almost the same amount for the LFO, PWR, etc. If you open the box all you see is the circuit board component side up, all the wiring and off board components are hidden.

numbernone · Joined: Aug 16, 2006 Posts: 477 Location: new york city

Began getting mine together last night. On power up it is passing a signal, but with no modulation from the pots, nor any indication of change from the switches. However just sitting in place it still sounds really great, so I am very excited.

Gotta look into the LFO tonite if I have time. In a few days I will begin pestering with questions if I have not gotten it sea worthy yet.

haima · Posted: Wed Jan 26, 2011 8:53 pm Post subject:

fonik · Posted: Tue May 31, 2011 2:08 pm Post subject:

i eventually finished this project! i had the PCB laying in a box for years now... below you see the first pictures.
i used a on-off-on switch for three LFO ranges, and i left off the presets completely. i added a LED indicating the internal LFO frequency.
BTW the depth pot did not work that nicely. i changed the wiring to have a simple attenuator and left off R38. now it is going better.

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diablojoy · Posted: Tue May 31, 2011 3:58 pm Post subject:

a really beautiful build mathias Smile

Gregg Hermetech · Joined: Nov 23, 2005 Posts: 35 Location: Paris, France

John Fromel built me a wonderful Seraph Deluxe pedal about six years back, and now I'm wondering if I might be able to mod it for Thru Zero Flanging. My unit has a "vibrato" mode, which TBH doesn't sound that great unless the LFO is very slow and the depth is very low. I feel that Thru Zero Flanging would probably be more usable. I'm also wondering if there's an easy way to get the LFO even slower.

Is John still around, or does anyone have the documentation for the build, with TZF? My understanding of electronics has increased somewhat since I bought the unit and I'd like to be able to mod it if possible.

Thanks in advance,

Gregg

My unit has either preset or manual control of rate and depth, individual on/off switches for each channel, and two mode switches (one for manual/preset, and one for regular or "vibrato" mode), plus an attenuated depth CV input on the back.

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Bucksears · Joined: Jan 27, 2017 Posts: 1 Location: Clayton, NC

I'm building a reverse-engineered Boss DC-2, but would like to apply the higher-headroom mod as indicated in the first post of this thread (below):

1st UP: How to run the Dim-C at 15v for a MOTM power supply.

1. Change IC10 to a 7806 in a 220 case. (It will be a tight fit and you may need to file a hair off the leads). I am ordering some from a few different mfgs to see what will fit the best. you could also hard wire the 7806 in...
a. Pin 1 to 18v Rail
b. Pin 2 to D8
c. Pin 3 to 6v Rail
2. Change C1 to 100uF with a 25v or higher rating.
3. Change R3 and R4 to 2.21K
4. Make sure C3 is 47uF with at least 16v rating.

In 1a, it mentions to put pin 1 of the 7806 to the 18V rail. Does that mean the power supply will be 18V and not 15V?
Or is the internal supply now running at 15V due to this modification?
Or is 1a a typo and should read Pin 1 to 15v rail?

Any insight would be appreciated - thx!