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 Forum index » DIY Hardware and Software » Jürgen Haible designs
Living VCOs
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Would you prefer one PCB with 3 VCOs a la JH-5A, or 1 VCO per PCB with more features
One PCB with Oscillator Driver and 3 VCO cores (like JH-5A - cheap!)
60%
 60%  [ 62 ]
1 PCB = 1 VCO (with many waveforms and inputs)
39%
 39%  [ 41 ]
Total Votes : 103

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Luka



Joined: Jun 29, 2007
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PostPosted: Sat Jul 25, 2009 7:31 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

mad
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oscilloclast



Joined: Sep 29, 2005
Posts: 49
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PostPosted: Tue Aug 04, 2009 8:19 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Well I built the Living VCO (everything worked right from the start) and I'm really happy with it. I have a few simple modification questions I was hoping someone can help me with.

1. I designed the unit so that it will have a course and fine tune pot for each VCO. I have the course pot set up (100K) and it works fine. My question is how do I add the fine pot (I'm using a 10K). What I'm looking for is a lug to lug description if someone can provide that.

2. I would like to slow the vibrato speed down. Is there a cap I can change to do this?

Thanks,
David :D :D
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jhaible



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PostPosted: Tue Aug 04, 2009 11:12 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

oscilloclast wrote:

1. I designed the unit so that it will have a course and fine tune pot for each VCO. I have the course pot set up (100K) and it works fine. My question is how do I add the fine pot (I'm using a 10K). What I'm looking for is a lug to lug description if someone can provide that.


http://www.jhaible.de/living_vcos/living_vcos_sch_1of4.pdf

Use another 100k linear pot, connect it between GND (cw end) and -15V (ccw end). Then take the wiper violtage and run it to Pin 2 of U1 via a resistor.
For 1 Oct range, 1.5MegOhm is good.

Quote:

2. I would like to slow the vibrato speed down. Is there a cap I can change to do this?


http://www.jhaible.de/living_vcos/living_vcos_sch_4of4.pdf

Increase R152 to 10MegOhm

JH.

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"I tell you the truth, if anyone says to this mountain, 'Go, throw yourself into the sea,' and does not doubt in his heart but believes that what he says will happen, it will be done for him. Therefore I tell you, whatever you ask for in prayer, believe that you have received it, and it will be yours." (Mk 11,23f)
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oscilloclast



Joined: Sep 29, 2005
Posts: 49
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PostPosted: Wed Aug 05, 2009 12:25 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Thanks for the info, the mods work great!

David
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julian



Joined: Jan 11, 2008
Posts: 103
Location: UK

PostPosted: Sat Aug 08, 2009 8:14 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

I have resisted commenting here recently, for fear of it seeming like im spamming the place, but i now feel compelled to post -

Somone just asked me for a quote on one of Dave's panel designs. This one -

Posted Image, might have been reduced in size. Click Image to view fullscreen.

I quoted them out at £69.61 unmilled (milled is 10% more), which seemed quite a lot, so I then worked out Shaefers inclusive price (before delivery) and it came out at £116.01072 !!!

Again, i really dont want to come across as simply touting my wares here, but that seems so much of a saving that it'd almost seem bad not to mention it : /


edit:

after posting, i saw the "total posts = 6" thing... im the same 'julian' from analogue heaven, and sdiy, just in case anyone is wondering

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davebr



Joined: Jun 09, 2007
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PostPosted: Sat Aug 08, 2009 8:58 am    Post subject: Living VCOs
Subject description: Panel Price
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julian wrote:
Somone just asked me for a quote on one of Dave's panel designs. I quoted them out at £69.61 unmilled (milled is 10% more), which seemed quite a lot, so I then worked out Shaefers inclusive price (before delivery) and it came out at £116.01072 !!!

I started with a panel that I would want, then let it sit for a while. Often I'll delete the minor tic marks to pull cost down some. I haven't ordered yet since this is a pretty high cost.

My FPE program costs this at ~$156 which is £93.5 with today's currency value. Is this a difference between FrontPanelExpress and Shaefer pricing or did you estimate the cost? I used HPGL for the major and minor tic marks which does drop the cost considerably.

With the minor tic marks removed, it drops to ~$128, which is £76.7 with today's currency value.

I thought I would wait on this project to see if a group panel somehow emerged. I'm interested if it has Coarse and Fine controls; not interested in a 10 turn precision single control.

BTW, what is "unmilled" mean in terms of fabrication? If it means drilled, I'd gladly pay 10% more. I hate drilling aluminum as it's hard to not go a bit off center, even with a drill press and a stepped drill.

Dave
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julian



Joined: Jan 11, 2008
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PostPosted: Sat Aug 08, 2009 10:48 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Hi,

I used this file -

http://modularsynthesis.com/jhaible/lvcos/4U%20DJB-LVCO.fpd

and clicked the pricing button, and got euro 108.32

germany has a 19% sales tax, so that then goes to euro 128.9008 before shipping.

google currency converter says 128.9008 Euros = 109.589268 British pounds, so slightly different from the figures i came up with before, but in the same range (possibly my exchange rates are a bit out, but then google only uses the median rate anyhow)

i suspect why my figures worked out so different from yours was due to the sales tax, becuase without that, im getting £97 with the exchange rate that i used in the previous calculation, which isnt a million miles off your figure.

in short, i wasnt trying to mislead : )


my prices always include all taxes that need to be paid by EU customers, and i think that is why, sometimes, the saving doesnt look as good as it'd otherwise.

its not so bad though, because, even before the sales tax issues, there's still a saving to be had ordering from me : )

as a side note - when ive looked before, it seems that Shaeffers american branch and EU branch give pretty much the same pre-tax figures (when converted).


with regard to drilled / milled -

my base price is for the engraved panel only. what im really trying to do is offer the work that people cant do at home themselves. i can drill or mill panels, but id always rather not, hence the 10% extra for panels like these.

when i get around to it, im going to do a webpage on panel drilling as im aware that often people do find it hard, but its really not too bad with a few (cheap) tools, and some time. the most essential tool (besides the drill) is a centre punch so as the drill doesnt wander, and then a set of drill bits to drill small pilot holes to start with.

some tape over the panel before drilling helps protect the surface from spinning swarf when drilling, but its a pain to remove afterward.

drilling is just dull and time consuming really, which is why id rather get people to drill their own panels : )

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davebr



Joined: Jun 09, 2007
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PostPosted: Sat Aug 08, 2009 11:37 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

julian wrote:
I suspect why my figures worked out so different from yours was due to the sales tax, becauae without that, I'm getting £97 with the exchange rate that I used in the previous calculation, which isnt a million miles off your figure.

in short, i wasnt trying to mislead : )

I knew you weren't trying to mislead. I was trying to see if there was a difference between FPE and Shaefer. I've only every bought one panel from Shaefer and the rest have been through FPE.

You're right ... drilling is dull. I always start with a very small pilot hole from the front. Then I turn the panel over and do all my drilling from the rear in a drill press. I've found that if I go up incrementally in drill size, some of the larger drills can 'grap' and bend a bit, and then drill a very nice hole offset from the center. That's why I always now use a stepped drill. This panel is large enough that I can't really clamp it in a vice so will have to hold it which will be harder to keep the drills centered.

With respect to milling ... can you mill a cross point at the center of every hole. It would be nice to have CNC accuracy for all those centers.

Dave
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jhaible



Joined: May 25, 2007
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PostPosted: Sat Aug 08, 2009 11:56 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Nothing against a front panel with many, many knobs - but before you all go that way, consider this.

You will *never* need all these attenuators at the same time!
Sometimes less is more. When I built the JH-5, I decided to wire a lot of CV inputs directly to the jacks, without a pot. You could do the same, and then just have 3 potentiometers with input and output jacks (passive attenuators) to be placed on whichever CV input you need to attenuate.

Just an idea. (Edit: And of course it's not my own, but taken from Moog.)

JH.

_________________
"I tell you the truth, if anyone says to this mountain, 'Go, throw yourself into the sea,' and does not doubt in his heart but believes that what he says will happen, it will be done for him. Therefore I tell you, whatever you ask for in prayer, believe that you have received it, and it will be yours." (Mk 11,23f)
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julian



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PostPosted: Sat Aug 08, 2009 12:04 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

In reply to Dave,

I dont actually engrave a cross hair any more, insted favouring a small dot.

I have found that a cross hair is more troublesome. Although it visually marks the position, when you use the center punch, there is still possible movement in either of the 4 directions. You have to align the punch visually, by looking carefully from different angles.

With a tiny dot there is a point to locate the center punch in exactly. Typically i dont even look at the tip of the punch, but simply feel when it is located correctly.

Not only is this easier, but also quicker, and less prone to error.

And, yes, all the panels i engrave are engraved with points marking the center of the holes for exactly this.

(i realise the old photos on the website show cross hairs, but all recent panels are supplied with points)

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/mr



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PostPosted: Sat Aug 08, 2009 2:18 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

julian wrote:
Posted Image, might have been reduced in size. Click Image to view fullscreen.

and it came out at £116.01072 !!!

Maybe the high price is due to some kind of Grid Lineup Disease fee. Wink
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julian



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PostPosted: Sat Aug 08, 2009 2:48 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

I havent considered the electrical function, but i find this panel more visually pleasing -

Posted Image, might have been reduced in size. Click Image to view fullscreen.


Jurgen,
Following on from your last comment, do you have any suggested panel shots?

(appologies if this has been covered previously)

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Funky40



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PostPosted: Sat Aug 08, 2009 2:51 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

jhaible wrote:
Nothing against a front panel with many, many knobs - but before you all go that way, consider this.

You will *never* need all these attenuators at the same time!
Sometimes less is more. When I built the JH-5, I decided to wire a lot of CV inputs directly to the jacks, without a pot. You could do the same, and then just have 3 potentiometers with input and output jacks (passive attenuators) to be placed on whichever CV input you need to attenuate.

Just an idea. (Edit: And of course it's not my own, but taken from Moog.)

JH.


hmmm, you make me thinking......

I draw yesterday a rough Panel. ----------> 28 Knobs ( inclouding a 5 input mixer and finetune )
the cost is not a problem as i make it in DIY ( 10$ or so ), but the wiring is a bit much

i was just on the way to go to draw on my Panel.
Thanks Jürgen, i will rethink.



edit:
changed from Motm format to eurorack. down to 16 Knobs now.
But the module will need two additional modules: one mixer and one attenuator module.
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numbertalk



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PostPosted: Sat Aug 22, 2009 8:30 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

I just finished my fully decked out Living VCOs module and it's all looking great! I just wanted to make sure, though, that I'm not getting any locking among the 3 VCO circuits, since I daisy chained the power supply. If I were, I wouldn't be able to slightly detune the VCOs, right? Either by ear or on the scope I wouldn't notice them beating or on the scope they would be either totally in sync or one of them would look like a hard-sync'd waveform, is that right? If so I think I'm good, since I'm not seeing that and I am able to slightly detune them and they stay out of tune, but I want to make sure.

I'll post some photos next week - my wife is out of town with the camera at the moment.

Thanks!
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jhaible



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PostPosted: Sat Aug 22, 2009 9:16 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

numbertalk wrote:
I just finished my fully decked out Living VCOs module and it's all looking great! I just wanted to make sure, though, that I'm not getting any locking among the 3 VCO circuits, since I daisy chained the power supply. If I were, I wouldn't be able to slightly detune the VCOs, right? Either by ear or on the scope I wouldn't notice them beating or on the scope they would be either totally in sync or one of them would look like a hard-sync'd waveform, is that right? If so I think I'm good, since I'm not seeing that and I am able to slightly detune them and they stay out of tune, but I want to make sure.

I'll post some photos next week - my wife is out of town with the camera at the moment.

Thanks!


It would be pretty much as you describe it.

JH.

_________________
"I tell you the truth, if anyone says to this mountain, 'Go, throw yourself into the sea,' and does not doubt in his heart but believes that what he says will happen, it will be done for him. Therefore I tell you, whatever you ask for in prayer, believe that you have received it, and it will be yours." (Mk 11,23f)
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numbertalk



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PostPosted: Sat Aug 22, 2009 4:02 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Excellent - thanks!

jhaible wrote:
numbertalk wrote:
I just finished my fully decked out Living VCOs module and it's all looking great! I just wanted to make sure, though, that I'm not getting any locking among the 3 VCO circuits, since I daisy chained the power supply. If I were, I wouldn't be able to slightly detune the VCOs, right? Either by ear or on the scope I wouldn't notice them beating or on the scope they would be either totally in sync or one of them would look like a hard-sync'd waveform, is that right? If so I think I'm good, since I'm not seeing that and I am able to slightly detune them and they stay out of tune, but I want to make sure.

I'll post some photos next week - my wife is out of town with the camera at the moment.

Thanks!


It would be pretty much as you describe it.

JH.
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/mr



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PostPosted: Sun Aug 23, 2009 3:34 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

numbertalk wrote:
I just wanted to make sure, though, that I'm not getting any locking among the 3 VCO circuits, since I daisy chained the power supply. If I were, I wouldn't be able to slightly detune the VCOs, right? Either by ear or on the scope I wouldn't notice them beating or on the scope they would be either totally in sync or one of them would look like a hard-sync'd waveform, is that right?

Perhaps it's hard to do this manually, it depends on how precise you can turn the pots and most of all how small lockups you want to be able to find. I would think this is a good alternative way of testing it:

Set the VCOs to the same frequency. Modulate one of the VCOs very slightly with a slow triangle LFO. Watch this VCO on the scope while syncing the scope's sweep to another unmodulated VCO. The waveform will move back and forth as the LFO modulation moves its frequency above and below the constant VCO frequency. When the two frequencies coincide, any lockup should be visible as a little "jerk" in the wandering motion of the waveform. Smile
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numbertalk



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PostPosted: Sun Aug 23, 2009 7:11 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Thanks for this suggestion! Just tried it and still seem to be free of any lockups I'm happy to report Smile

/mr wrote:
numbertalk wrote:
I just wanted to make sure, though, that I'm not getting any locking among the 3 VCO circuits, since I daisy chained the power supply. If I were, I wouldn't be able to slightly detune the VCOs, right? Either by ear or on the scope I wouldn't notice them beating or on the scope they would be either totally in sync or one of them would look like a hard-sync'd waveform, is that right?

Perhaps it's hard to do this manually, it depends on how precise you can turn the pots and most of all how small lockups you want to be able to find. I would think this is a good alternative way of testing it:

Set the VCOs to the same frequency. Modulate one of the VCOs very slightly with a slow triangle LFO. Watch this VCO on the scope while syncing the scope's sweep to another unmodulated VCO. The waveform will move back and forth as the LFO modulation moves its frequency above and below the constant VCO frequency. When the two frequencies coincide, any lockup should be visible as a little "jerk" in the wandering motion of the waveform. Smile
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jhaible



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PostPosted: Sun Aug 23, 2009 10:19 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

numbertalk wrote:
Thanks for this suggestion! Just tried it and still seem to be free of any lockups I'm happy to report Smile


Oh, and I am happy to hear this, too!

Well, that PCB is really four completely independent layouts, so if there were any locking, you could still star-wire instead of daisy-chain the power supply voltage. But apparently the Ferrites are good enough to separate te circuits even with daisy-chained power.

JH.

_________________
"I tell you the truth, if anyone says to this mountain, 'Go, throw yourself into the sea,' and does not doubt in his heart but believes that what he says will happen, it will be done for him. Therefore I tell you, whatever you ask for in prayer, believe that you have received it, and it will be yours." (Mk 11,23f)
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Peake



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PostPosted: Tue Aug 25, 2009 1:46 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

[quote="julian"]I havent considered the electrical function, but i find this panel more visually pleasing -

Posted Image, might have been reduced in size. Click Image to view fullscreen.

/quote]

That definitely "breathes" better than the "pure grid" version. Nice work.

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numbertalk



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PostPosted: Wed Aug 26, 2009 5:48 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Ok, my wife is back with the camera, but it's busted. So here's the best photo I could get with my phone.

EDIT: Was having problems inlining the image from the web so attaching to this post.


lvcos.jpg
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This image has been reduced to fit the page. Click on it to enlarge.

lvcos.jpg


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Girts



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PostPosted: Sun Aug 30, 2009 4:49 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Hi,
I wonder if LivingVCO PCBs are still available or I am too late? Smile
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jhaible



Joined: May 25, 2007
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PostPosted: Sun Aug 30, 2009 6:00 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Girts wrote:
Hi,
I wonder if LivingVCO PCBs are still available or I am too late? Smile


Sure - as long as order form is listed here http://electro-music.com/forum/topic-26164.html , PCBs are still available.

JH.

_________________
"I tell you the truth, if anyone says to this mountain, 'Go, throw yourself into the sea,' and does not doubt in his heart but believes that what he says will happen, it will be done for him. Therefore I tell you, whatever you ask for in prayer, believe that you have received it, and it will be yours." (Mk 11,23f)
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Girts



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PostPosted: Sat Sep 05, 2009 12:55 pm    Post subject: painter with soldering iron Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Suppose that I will build one of the Living VCOs ''bad'' , i.e. no polystyrene caps, no 0,1% metal film resistors, no tempco resistor at all... instead just polyester cap and approximately matched carbon resistors. will the linear detune function became meaningless in all this badness?
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jhaible



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PostPosted: Sat Sep 05, 2009 3:23 pm    Post subject: Re: painter with soldering iron Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Girts wrote:
Suppose that I will build one of the Living VCOs ''bad'' , i.e. no polystyrene caps, no 0,1% metal film resistors, no tempco resistor at all... instead just polyester cap and approximately matched carbon resistors. will the linear detune function became meaningless in all this badness?


If you use 10% resistors and more than one CV source, probably yes.
Apart from that: try it! It's easy to replace capacitors and tempco resistors afterwards.

JH.

_________________
"I tell you the truth, if anyone says to this mountain, 'Go, throw yourself into the sea,' and does not doubt in his heart but believes that what he says will happen, it will be done for him. Therefore I tell you, whatever you ask for in prayer, believe that you have received it, and it will be yours." (Mk 11,23f)
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