281 clone project- taking orders now for last run of these..

zthee · Joined: Feb 20, 2008 Posts: 414 Location: Stockholm

Got my 2 boards up and running yesterday!
Thanks for a great module! Smile

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toppobrillo · Posted: Thu Jul 03, 2008 12:36 am Post subject:

Pehr · Posted: Thu Jul 03, 2008 11:36 am Post subject:

Could the 7810 regulator be replaced by the smaller 78L10?

zthee · Joined: Feb 20, 2008 Posts: 414 Location: Stockholm

Pehr, I used a 78L05. But I only used 2 boards.. might be to small for 4? (I think Topp said it was OK a few pages back..).

Pehr · Posted: Thu Jul 03, 2008 12:44 pm Post subject:

zthee · Joined: Feb 20, 2008 Posts: 414 Location: Stockholm

Ah, yes ofcourse I ment 78L10 (It's just that I'm building something with a 78L05 in it right now and it was the first numbers that came to my mind.. Cool

)

Rykhaard · Joined: Sep 02, 2007 Posts: 1290 Location: Canada

My 2 x 281 clone boards arrived yesterday! Weeeee. Very Happy

The day after my T.Henry 3080 book arrived from Magic Smoke / Lulu. (WONDERFUL book! Thanks greatly Thomas / Tim! )

Still have 2 K.Stone Gate Sequencer summing boards coming ......

As The Backlog Grows ..... Very Happy

lol

After my 6 month break from building, I'm having such a tough time on deciding what to build next! Shocked

- I can't wait for the 281's to be completed but
- I've only got 3 VCOs at the mo' (with boards for 4 more)
- I want to get my sequencer designs built
- I want to order more R.Wilson MFOS Sequencer digital boards, for modding
- 2 x R.Wilson State Variables have been started
- 1 x R.Wilson ADSR is almost finished
- 2 x R.Schultz/K.Stone VCA #'s 3 and 4 just need to be mounted
- and there're still a few little things to finish!

AIIIIEEIEIEEEIEEYYYEEEEEE! Shocked

W/ 2hrs. per day allowed, to build. Razz

At least now though, I have a high end Hewlett Packard Frequency Counter that I got free from work, to tune my VCOs with. Very Happy

Gawd it's great to be back to building!! Smile

Now - if I'd finally register the FTP software that I use for building my webpage, I could get new photos up. Rolling Eyes

(/happy ranting over) lol

RF · Posted: Fri Jul 04, 2008 7:31 am Post subject:

Rykhaard · Joined: Sep 02, 2007 Posts: 1290 Location: Canada

Less time than ME Bruce? OMFG! And I thought I had it bad. Razz

I ran out of time today as well - using the Hewlett Packard tuner, found that my 3 VCOs are well within 0.25% tuning - cool. Finer tuning later, with this tool.
Checked the tuning on my 4 step rotary switch tuner - except for 1 dirty position on 2 rotaries; almost perfect tuning. Weeeee. Very Happy

(Detuning trouble I had earlier, COULD have been my wierd Ken Stone VCO, where 1 CV pot wasn't all the way and was throwing an off-voltage into things. Hope I fixed that, by zeroing the pot.)

Not much time left, I added the 5th bit switch, to my 5 bit switches (for 32 notes in 1V/octave) to my breadboard. After finding an errant extra resistor, found tuning to be within a couple of percent.
Sooooo .... the tuning of it IS possible. I just have 0.1% 16 resistors for it and all is cool. Smile

(I think. Haha.)
Ran out of time. This has been decided as my current project though. So if all goes well, within 2 or 3 weeks, I should have my 8 or 16 step, 5 bit switches per step, sequencer, up and running. Shall see. Very Happy

Damn time - keeps running out! Shocked

lol

synthmonger · Posted: Fri Jul 11, 2008 9:22 am Post subject:

zthee · Joined: Feb 20, 2008 Posts: 414 Location: Stockholm

Yes it is! Cool

I'm getting the aluminum version of it next week. I always make a dummy before ordering. I don't want to miss any input/outputs or have to many.

toppobrillo · Posted: Sat Jul 12, 2008 6:42 pm Post subject:

so i just wrote someone alot about how i labeled my most recent panel and i thought maybe someone here may find it helpful too. it involves laser transparency paper and spray adhesive... very durable!

1. print the art in reverse [so that the toner will contact the panel and stay protected]

2. cut it to where you have a bit of excess on all sides, maybe 1 1/2" orso

3. tape your painted, drilled and otherwise finished panel down with double-sided tape

4.position your 'decal' properly over the panel

5. tape the top-edge [you could do the side edge too] of it down to your work surface with masking tape while keeping it in position [remember you left some excess]

6. make sure your tape is stuck well, fold the decal back on the tape 'hinge' make sure when you pull it back over the panel, it stays in perfect position [ i learned this simple technique while working in a sign-shop applying vinyl decals to things, i think it is called the 'hinge' technique if you want to look it up]

7. pull it back again, and give the panel and the decal an even coat of spray-adhesive [i used 3M general purp.] let it dry for 10-15 seconds, as the instructions say for a stronger bond

8. then carefully!! fold it back over, keeping the 'hinge' pulled taut, with your thumb,start to 'apply' the transparency like a sticker, use alot of pressure and consistent coverge, side-to-side, continue to lower the decal onto the panel while and keep smoothing it down, don't push too hard where you have holes drilled right now.

9. get it all down, then press hard around all the edges, this is probably the most important part- work FAST! that stuff dries super fast

10. remove the masking tape hinge carefully so that your sheet is all flat, you don't want any resistance.. press the sheet down all over, then press around the holes, keep doing it for like a minute or two-i suppose a rubber mallet might be good to use here if you have one. i don't, i just pressed as hard as i could till i was confident that i could do no more.

11. ok, so it is down and all flat, now let it dry for a while, maybe over night.

12. flip it over and trim the excess off with an exacto knife

13. with fine sandpaper, carefully sand the edges to where there is no transparency protruding over the edges. it might be easiest to tape the sandpaper down flat, and move the panel instead.

14.ok so it is looking nice now right?? remove ALL the gunk from the transparency with denatured alcohol, then with the finest steel-wool you can get, ruff up the surface of the plastic, it will take the glare off it.

15. all that is left is to cut out your holes with an exacto knife. try your hardest not to lift the decal around the holes [use a narrow blade]

ok that's it! maybe a print-shop could do light print with a color-laser printer, or make long prints for rack-panels..

here is a photo of the panel::

josh

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fonik · Posted: Sun Jul 13, 2008 5:35 am Post subject:

very nice work, man! looks awesome.

rjd2 · Joined: Sep 02, 2007 Posts: 236 Location: philly

i know this is lame, but if anyone is doing a panel in either motm or dotcom height, id love to buy one if you are having them made. please pm me if so-thanks!

ericcoleridge · Joined: Jan 16, 2007 Posts: 889 Location: NYC

Fernando · Posted: Tue Jul 15, 2008 4:17 am Post subject:

both are very very nice panels, wow!

toppobrillo · Posted: Tue Jul 15, 2008 4:31 am Post subject:

hey thanks i really appreciate the compliments- this art i ended up with here was partly inspired by my simmon sds-800 percussion synthesizer, which i have become quite fond of and use exclusively in the only band i am in anymore.. Rolling Eyes

check it:

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a_guy_called_tom · Joined: Jun 21, 2008 Posts: 31 Location: mountains

Hi all,
First post on electro-music, so hi everyone! Describing myself as a complete noob when it comes to electric circuits would pretty much hit the nail:) However, due to the nice pcb and documentation offered here by topp (big thanks!) i'm still giving it a go. Really dont want to miss an Envelope as nice as this one.
Gladly i could find all needed parts and started to build the first pcb of the pair today. One thing i'm not quite sure is where to put D10. I cant seem to find it anywhere on the pcb or the schematics. Any hints?
Thanks,
Tom

Fernando · Posted: Mon Jul 21, 2008 8:01 am Post subject:

Josh, where do you get your switch caps?
And, with wich type of switches they work (fit) ?

thank you,

blue hell · Posted: Mon Jul 21, 2008 11:53 am Post subject: Re: D10

numbertalk · Posted: Mon Jul 21, 2008 12:06 pm Post subject:

All the PCBs for this are gone, right? Saw something saying there were some extras but then a posting referencing a mention on matrixsynth made it sound like those are now gone. Any plans to make more? If not, is there a ready-to-transfer image available for etching a board for myself?

Thanks!

toppobrillo · Posted: Tue Jul 22, 2008 4:57 pm Post subject:

ericcoleridge · Joined: Jan 16, 2007 Posts: 889 Location: NYC

I could probably take a couple(2) more.

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numbertalk · Posted: Wed Jul 23, 2008 9:27 am Post subject:

Sent you a PM - would definitely take 4.

zthee · Joined: Feb 20, 2008 Posts: 414 Location: Stockholm

I'm having some troulbes with my circuits.

After attaching them to the real front panel The output looks more like the image to the right, then to the left as it used to.

First I thought it might be a power issue (since it goes from about -5V to +5V instead of 0 to 10V as it should?) but the power seems to work fine. And all the cables are where they ought to be..

The only thing I did was to take the it out of the cardboard and place it behind a aluminium panel instead..

Any ideas?

Thanks!

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