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M185 sequencer Project - NEW PCB VERSION
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nerdware



Joined: Jul 11, 2009
Posts: 91
Location: UK

PostPosted: Sat Dec 05, 2009 9:11 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

I'm just starting to the source the components. I have the PCB, PIC and switches. Now I'm working on the caps...very slowly, very carefully. The rest of the bits should be easy for me, but caps confuse me. There are too many options! I don't like options. I want to be told exactly what to get.

Is there a list of order codes that I've missed? Am I worrying unnecessarily?

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The Bad Producer



Joined: Mar 08, 2009
Posts: 282
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PostPosted: Sat Dec 05, 2009 12:55 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Hi nerdware, maybe I can help out - do you live in the UK? I could give you the rapid order codes (if you order from them?)

Charlie

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nerdware



Joined: Jul 11, 2009
Posts: 91
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PostPosted: Sat Dec 05, 2009 1:14 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Yes, I'm in the UK and can order from Rapid. That would be very helpful, thanks.
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The Bad Producer



Joined: Mar 08, 2009
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PostPosted: Sat Dec 05, 2009 2:02 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Here you go!

C1 - 2U2 Electrolytic - 11-0210
C2 - 100NF (I used axial ceramic) - 08-1454
C3, C4, C5, C7, C9, C11 - 10NF (I used axial ceramic) - 08-1452
C6 - 330NF (use good quality here) - 10-4120
C8, C10, C12 - 10UF Electrolytic - 11-0840
C13 - 100NF (use good quality here) - 10-2216
C14 - 220PF (ceramic, 2.5mm) - 08-0945

The 100NF and 330NF could possibly be better quality (these are 10%) if so you'd need to order from somewhere else other than Rapid, as they don't have better tolerances. I used 10% for the 100NF, and 5% for the 330NF (I had lying around) and have noticed no problems with CV droop...

Hope this helps!

Charlie

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nerdware



Joined: Jul 11, 2009
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PostPosted: Sat Dec 05, 2009 2:24 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

That's excellent! Many thanks.
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julian



Joined: Jan 11, 2008
Posts: 103
Location: UK

PostPosted: Sat Dec 05, 2009 3:25 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

I now have the 5u panels sorted.

The attatched photos show both versions, for the 2.0 and 2.1 software.

These panels have been cut for -

5mm range switch
ALPHA 6.9mm dia pots
12.6mm dia SCI momentary switches (rapid part number78-1550)
3.0mm leds


As i do not want to get into cutting lots of different revisions, it seemed sensible to cut the holes to the minimum size, rather than the maximum. The only exception to this is the SCI switch cut-outs.

One of the photos shows the rear of the panel. Clearence is tight, but should work with most enclosures (although the onus of responsibility for checking compatibility with any specific case must, of course, lie with the buyer)

The 5u panels are infilled with white infill.


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ryktnk



Joined: Apr 24, 2008
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PostPosted: Sat Dec 05, 2009 4:55 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

The Bad Producer wrote:
Well, I spent a bit more time on it last night, and replaced a few bits n bobs, and now it is working really well, a great sequencer, thanks Ryk!

BUT.. the internal clock still does not work, I cannot get it to start - is S/S the correct place to connect this switch on the board? (As I said I can't see R/S)

I don't see myself using the internal clock much (if at all) but it would be good to get it running...

Charlie


Hello

Sorry for the delay.
I'm glad you got it working [mostly]
Yes the R/S is the same as S/S [ run/stop start/stop ]
Embarassed

Check to make sure that IC2 is UB or UBE version [unbuffered] as this
is really important for the internal clock to work.
Also check the resistor R15 47R is could be confused with R48 47K,
and check the polarity of the diodes D1,D2 and D4.

For the start stop mechanism of the clock, check Pin 1 of IC3, this should
toggle between 0v and 5v, with each press of the S/S button.

Let us know how you get on.


-ryk
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The Bad Producer



Joined: Mar 08, 2009
Posts: 282
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 07, 2009 3:14 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Hi Ryk,

There was no delay! Thanks for responding though, I've been having so much fun using the sequencer that I didn't want to get back into prodding around, I'll check it out again tonight though. I used UBE for the IC2, but it was HEF type, not CD - do you think this would cause problems? (I've had anomalies before with HEF/CD chips).

I'll check it all out - I'm sure it is simply a wiring fault or broken switch etc.

Thanks again for your reply - I'll post a picture of finished sequencer later too...


Charlie

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a100user



Joined: Oct 28, 2003
Posts: 158
Location: UK

PostPosted: Mon Dec 07, 2009 4:27 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

[quote="julian"]I now have the 5u panels sorted.

The attatched photos show both versions, for the 2.0 and 2.1 software.

These panels have been cut for -

5mm range switch
ALPHA 6.9mm dia pots
12.6mm dia SCI momentary switches (rapid part number78-1550)
3.0mm leds

[/quote]

Hi Julian,

I have now mounted my switches to the Euro panels and I was wondering if you have cut the holes for the same components as the 5U above?

I'll post a picture or two once I get the rest of the panel components fitted (and purchased)

David
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julian



Joined: Jan 11, 2008
Posts: 103
Location: UK

PostPosted: Mon Dec 07, 2009 4:39 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Hi David,

The cut-outs for the momentary push buttons are far smaller on the euro panel. Also the jack sockets are cut for the cliff jacks (as used on the doepfer system etc)

The other holes are the same on both panes. Both are cut for 3mm leds, the switches as supplied by Ryk, and alpha pots, altough all these can be expanded on the 5u panel where needed (i have ensured the text is not too close to any of these holes)

The range switch on the euro 2.1 panel is a slide, as it fitted visually better, but on the 2.0 euro panel, its cut for a toggle, same as the 5u panels.


Ill make a post later in the day with the panel prices for all versions, and the fasteners (i now have plenty of stainless steel m2 and m2.5 screws in stock, suitable for the slide switches Ryk supplied), and then will start taking orders for panels in earnest.

Julian

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a100user



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PostPosted: Mon Dec 07, 2009 6:30 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Thanks Julian,

Did you have any specific momentary switches in mind when designing the Euro panel, I'm going shopping for parts next week Smile

Thanks

David
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julian



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PostPosted: Mon Dec 07, 2009 7:03 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Both panels are designed to use SCI switches, but can use any of same or larger dia (within reason : )

http://www.sci.com.tw/PRODUCTS/switch/swit-PUSH%20BUTTON.htm

Euro panel uses - R13-521

http://www.sci.com.tw/PRODUCTS/switch/(R13)%20PUSH%20SWITCH/R13-521.htm

5u panel uses - R13-507


http://www.sci.com.tw/PRODUCTS/switch/(R13)%20PUSH%20SWITCH/R13-507.htm



(sorry for the poor links - i cant get them to format correctly, so its copy and paste time... )

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nerdware



Joined: Jul 11, 2009
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 07, 2009 7:58 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Are those buttons and switches sold by Rapid or Farnell? If so, do you have the order codes? Thanks.

UPDATE:
I just checked, and Rapid have the 5U (R13-507) push buttons. The order code is 78-0182. The Eurorack buttons (R13-521) are 78-0186.

Thanks.

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julian



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PostPosted: Mon Dec 07, 2009 3:00 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

David,

You can get evreything you need for the front panel in one order from rapid (excluding the screws, which you have from me)

The part codes for the sci switches posted above are correct. You can get them in both black and red, but thatll be apparent from the rapid page.

Leds are simple enough. Im personally using the flat top ones, as i think they look nicer, but theyre a touch more expensive.

You can get the range toggle from rapid too, and the splined alpha pots (you will need to break off the locating lug)

Also order yourself some rean soft touch knobs (or similar) Theyre not fancy, but they are very cheap at rapid.

(note: do not buy splined pots for the 5u panels if you are using grub screw knobs - the grub compresses the split in the shaft, and will cause the edge of the knob to spin on an eliptical orbit)


I think thatll be your whole job done in one hit. Oh, the cliff jacks are availible there too!

I think i said to you privately, that i think im going to make a helper pcb for mine, rather like i did with the CGS ring mod. This will support the pcb from Ryk on some of the front panel components.

Its a pity all those slide switches are different heights, as a pcb running along the back of all of them would make for much simpler construction : (


Im vaguly considering making up small helper pcbs for the switches individually, but im not sure as its worth it.

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nerdware



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PostPosted: Mon Dec 07, 2009 4:12 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

I may be interested in your helper PCBs, esp if you use headers. I've been thinking about how to put the resistors and diodes for the panel on a stripboard. That may be overkill, but it makes small subassemblies possible. The panel wiring would then just be bundles of wires ending in plugs for a PCB header. Helper PCBs could make this even simpler.
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magman



Joined: Feb 04, 2009
Posts: 363
Location: Liverpool, UK

PostPosted: Mon Dec 07, 2009 4:19 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

David,

When I get round to building my 5U panels for these sequencers, I'm also thinking of making some PCB's for mounting the switches (and a few other components as well). I've thought of a possible way round the switch height differences. I'm planning to use some SIL headers, like these:

http://www.rapidonline.com/Cables-Connectors/Connectors-Multipole/PCB-Interconnect/40W-Single-row-PCB-header-plug/75736

Soldering them to the PCB, then soldering the switches to these as required. I may need to trim some of the pin heights, but it should give a good match.

Using the PCB, it should be possible to reduce the number of switch mounting holes needed for the switches. I'm also looking at using countersunk screws for the switch mounting screws, to give a smoother overall panel. I will no doubt be contacting you for a couple of custom panels when I get round to building these modules (Don't worry, I've already got some good countersinking tools).

Regards

Magman
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julian



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PostPosted: Mon Dec 07, 2009 4:50 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

nerdware wrote:
I may be interested in your helper PCBs, esp if you use headers. I've been thinking about how to put the resistors and diodes for the panel on a stripboard. That may be overkill, but it makes small subassemblies possible. The panel wiring would then just be bundles of wires ending in plugs for a PCB header. Helper PCBs could make this even simpler.


I know evreyone has seen pcbs before, but attatched is a photo of the kind of thing im talking about....

This one was made to support one of ken stones CGS Real Ring Mod boards. The CGS board (with its little transfromers) is bolted to the other side of the 'helper' pcb.

I know another option would have been to desolder kens parts and replicate the connections directly on the helper, but somtimes, for 1-offs, a quick approach is best!

Ive just looked at Ryk's pannel wiring directions - i didnt actually realise there were so many off-board resistors!

If i make pcbs, they will be very basic - no silkscreen / solder mask etc. Im not a fan of headers for the sake of them (i find soldering headers more time consuming than soldering direct) and i think they decrease reliability, but, obviously, theyre needed in some circumstances. Im unconvinced this is one of them, but, if i make up the boards, im happy to add them, if they fit well enough.

Im not sure though where the break-even point is. I have 2 sets of boards to make. Which is quicker, making the pcbs, or just messing about with the resistors without them?


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nerdware



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PostPosted: Mon Dec 07, 2009 5:34 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

My dad will be doing the soldering for me, and he seems happy to wire it up the RYK way. So your point about additional soldering is a good one.

Maybe it's too early for me to think about the wiring. Right now, I'm just struggling to source all the components. Wink Construction is a very long way off.

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julian



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PostPosted: Mon Dec 07, 2009 5:39 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Im not certain that i understand the wiring diag. yet, but i might take back my comment about headers... It looks like there is a fair bit of daisy chaining going on, and, in that case, IDCs might be just the ticket for a nice neat (and quick) build?
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nerdware



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PostPosted: Tue Dec 08, 2009 3:38 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Yeah, like all the sequencers I've looked at closely, there's a bus system. A board - whether PCB or stripboard - might help with that. It would at least move all the tricky stuff away from the panel and the main PCB. That should make fixing mistakes a bit easier!

There are arguments for both approaches. Having no experience building anything like this, or anything at all, I can't say which one might be easier. It's much easier to count the cost of the components. Wink

Would anyone who has built this sequencer like to comment?

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Luka



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PostPosted: Tue Dec 08, 2009 3:45 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

if anyone wants pcbs + PICs for this i have 2 sets, 1xrev1 and 1xrev2
i dont think ill ever get to it
happy to do trades for stuff or cash ($25 per set i guess)
send me a pm

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ryktnk



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PostPosted: Tue Dec 08, 2009 3:56 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

julian wrote:
David,

Its a pity all those slide switches are different heights, as a pcb running along the back of all of them would make for much simpler construction : (

.


Hello

Yes I encountered this problem when I tried to make
PCBs for the switches.
The best approach I found was to glue tiny bits of 1.5mm
plastic to the underside ends of the 1p8T switches, to make
them higher to match the 2p4T.
I used some plastic sheet from a model shop, and super glue !

-ryk
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The Bad Producer



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PostPosted: Tue Dec 08, 2009 6:46 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Having wired up one of these just the other day, I have decided to design a PCB to mount all panel components - the panel wiring took me a whole day and is a bit of a nightmare - for the other three I want to make.

I'll post some pics of the one I made soon, it's a bit of a mess though! I did use rotary switches, as I had them lying around...


Charlie

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julian



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PostPosted: Tue Dec 08, 2009 7:35 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

I have some prices here -

Prices are good untill the end of the year. After the 30th december, the price will rise.


Euro Panel (for v2.0 or 2.1 software - please be clear at time of ordering)
2.0mm anodised alluminium, gloss black, silver (no infill) engraving - GBP £45.50

5u Panel (for v2.0 or 2.1 software - please be clear at time of ordering)
3.0mm anodised alluminium, matt black, white infill - GBP £48.00


(prices good for panels as pictured, without customisations)

Fasteners Set, 18-off M2.5 & 20-off M2 in stainless steel - GBP £4.00 (only with panel order)
Euro panel v2.1 range switch & fasteners- GBP £0.95 (only with panel order)



Postage charged at cost price -

UK - £2.65 + 75p (1st class recorded - maximum compensation £39)
UK - £5.40 (fully insured / next day)
EU - £2.99 + £4.50 (airmail + tracking / insurance)
ROW - £5.31 + £4.50 (airmail + tracking / insurance)

(i reserve the right to increase postage if the above figures become inaccurate, however, postage will never deliberatly rise above cost price)

Payment by bank in sterling or euro, google checkout in any other currency @ 4.4%.
Credit card orders must be tracked & insured. Optional / at buyers risk otherwise.


Both bank accounts, and the Google Checkout account, are all held by "The Beast UK Ltd", which is a registered uk company, company number 6615606 [/b]

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The Bad Producer



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PostPosted: Wed Dec 09, 2009 4:20 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

So I finished the first sequencer, it is in Frac format with banana sockets, but I'm probably going to transfer the same design to Euro also. I solved all the problems I had, most of which had something to do with dropping a bowl of spaghetti on the back...

I'm absolutely going to etch up some pcb's for the panel components for my others!

Thanks Ryk!

Charlie


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